trtturbo- well i had chance this morning and pulled the intake pipe from the throttle body and found that there is oil all over in there. i havent taken anything loose from the turbo yet. but the car only sits over night, not for days. but i will take your suggestion on soldering the wire instead of using the t-tap. good idea. well i think i need a new oil seal on the turbo. but i will also check the pump. thanks for the help.

 

i talked with brandon from sts and he emailed me a check list they want me to go threw. did all that everything checks out fine. so i have taken some of the charge pipe off to clean the inside out. the only thing i could think of and changed was the oil line coming from the turbo to the return oil pump. i had the hose going up and over the rear axle housing. so i cut a the hose shorter and ran it under the rear end housing. so it is more level and direct.i figured maybe at high boost it having to go over the rear end was to much and oil couldnt get out of the turbo fast enough. so i am going to finish it up tonight a go for a test dirve and see what happens.

 

I saw that Billy gave some suggestions. He's a great source of info. I had an oil problem on mine when first installed. It was partly due to the T-tap connectors not making a good connection on my oil return pump wiring. Some soldering fixed that prob.

Now, here's my $0.02 that may help you:

After "fixing" the cause of my oil problem (so I thought), the car still ran like a$$. I had oil on the MAF. That will murder your HP and screw up the long-term fuel trims, taking away even more HP. I ended out replacing the MAF and removing ALL the turbo pipes and cleaning them to remove residual oil. The pipe under the K-member is a magnet for retaining oil when you think everything is clean. The only way to get that one clean is to remove the pipe and then clean it. I bet if you have oil on the plugs it's on the MAF. Pull the elbow connecting the STS pipe to the throttle body. If you have oil there, then all the intake pipes are coated. The turbo is going to blow any oil through the whole system because of the positive boost. BTW, if $$ is an issue, you can carefully clean all the oil residue off the MAF using Q-tips and alcohol.

Running the car with a dirty air filter will also cause it to suck oil into the intake, as mentioned. And, the turbo does not have a "seal" per se separating the turbine from compressor/ oil galleries. It uses a ring design like a piston ring. When the pressure gets too much, the oil blows by the turbine rings and thus into the intake tract and the exhaust pipe. The check valve can also be a source of problems. Physically remove it from the turbine and see if it drips. If so, it's bad. If you can blow air through it it's bad too.

Last but not least if one of the relays (the two black square "boxes" attached to the wiring harness just past the in-line resistor) is bad, they will not send a signal to the oil pump to engage the high speed mode when operating under WOT and positive boost. The in-line resistor is limiting the voltage to let the pump run at low speed. The relay then flips to bypass the resistor when the pressure switch (installed near the computer) senses positive boost. This allows the pump to run at high speed. Believe it or not, most crappy local auto parts stores sell the relays if needed. This one is a bit of a long-shot, as when mine went bad (yes, I had TWO separate probs with my oil issues) it set off the oil buzzer.....but, you never know. The relay went bad because it was getting moisture on it when it rained. I relocated the relay and no issues now.

Lot of info, but I went through this pain-in-the -a$$ process only a few months ago. It took three months to finally get everything right and the car running oil-free all the time. Took another month to unscrew the computer tune and get the A/F back to what it should be. Car runs awsome as a result though

Persistence and a step-by-step approach will cure your prob.

Hope this helps.

 

SCHANTIN - i went threw the checks of making sure the pressure switches are working correctly. according to sts. as far as jumping the wires to see if the buzz is workingand also if the pump is kicking up to high speed. according to that everything there is working fine. i did have oil in all the intake pipe and maf covered in oil. took all pipe off and clean them out. also cleane maf with electrical cleaner. put all back together as soon as i started it i had oil in the intake pipes again. also the air filter was off. i havent checked the check valve yet. i am going to do that saturday.