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Benefits of Meth. vs. FMIC

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Old 08-02-2006, 12:20 PM
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Well is there anything to be lost(aside from more money) in using a large FMIC ONLY, instead of Meth? I really would prefer to just intercool it and call it good, but Im not so sure that it will be effective enough the way some people are talking.
Old 08-02-2006, 12:42 PM
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Default WWF Meth Percentage / MAF Meth Controller

Originally Posted by SSnakekiller
WW fluid is only partially meth, maybe 40%, most of the rest is water..
So it sounds like using pure meth dropped IAT's even more than meth/water combo...interesting. But using pure meth should make your AFR very rich...
You should meth tune the car with whatever mixture you plan on always running...
For example: meth tune it with 75/25 meth/h20 or 50/50 with the wideband
If you change that mixture in the future, it will change your AFR. So going from WW fluid to pure meth should have altered your AFR...
FYI: -20 degree WWF is 30% Meth, so if you add 4 YELLOW bottles of "Heet" (99% Meth) and one gallon of WWF together, you almost get the recommended 50% / 50% blend of Meth and H2O.

With respect to Meth Injection systems (IMHO), the Snow MAF controlled unit really performs well. Once you've set the curve on the controller, that's it; quite simple actually. To quote Ronco: "Just set it and forget it!"

Just to be clear, I DO NOT have a turbo, nor a blower, but the Snow Boost Cooler works with my NA engine. Evidence: After getting the engine completely heat soaked from a long freeway blast, if I pop the hood, the LT1 aftermarket aluminum elbow (where the Meth jet is mounted) will be quite cool/cold vs. the rest of the engine compartment, which is usually very hot by that time. I do not have a dash mounted IAT gauge either, but my hand knows the difference between hot vs. cold. Additionally, w/ respect to added power, I now get rubber on the 2-3 shift! No updated tune either.

My $0.02 -

MIKE
Old 08-02-2006, 09:29 PM
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To answer a few of the previous questions, I am running a Devil's own kit. The apparent cause of failure seems to be that I splice tapped into the map signal instead of soldering the connection (dumbass move, I know). Yes, the pure meth did richen the A/F, but I wanted that because of the hotter ambient temps that day. As to the comment about not wanting IAT retard on low boost, that is easy. You only set up the retard for the higher airflow sections of the spark vs iat table, so that low boost doesn't hit the sections that would pull time with high temps. I feel this added safety net to be invaluable in the event of a meth failure just like the one I experienced. Also, if I eventually finish the tune (work in progress because of ever changing mods) I can take advantage of the spark modifier tables to allow the engine to make the most power possible in cool winter temps and still be safe in summer. As to the guy who asked if a big front mount IC would be enough, most big car manufacturers who give warranties think so. Most of us around here are never quite satisfied with just having "enough".



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