Forced Induction Superchargers | Turbochargers | Intercoolers

Larger Air Filter for procharger setup

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Old Sep 21, 2006 | 03:16 PM
  #21  
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So no one with the twin innercoolers has attempted to put in a larger air filter? I know it's been done before but for the life of me I can't find the archived threads.

Mike
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Old Sep 21, 2006 | 05:07 PM
  #22  
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I believe I used a ru1785 with the twins and stock accordion hose, but it had to be sort of padded with foam to avoid denting and wear through. I would just measure what you have for space and go to k&ns website and look. That's what I did and went with just the hat and filter as well as a small one on the other opening. Now I'm using the rf1004 its dimensions are; base 5.75", top 5" with metal cap and 1/4by 20 stud, flange is 10 degree angle by 1.75" length, length 12.125", with the hat only and filter it comes out to just short of the fender enough to miss with engine movement. The bolt is right under the lip under there where the ati cover plates go. I just cut mine in a L shape for stiffening and drilled a hole in it for a hanger. Was perfect.
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Old Sep 26, 2006 | 07:39 PM
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AAAAAAADamnit why didn't I read this thread closer and see the RF-1004 didn't fit with the twin ATI intercoolers.

No way that bitch is fitting in where the stock accordion/filter goes.

Anyone need one, slightly dented ?

Maybe I'll try the RU-1785 that Boone mentioned.

Also, what part number are you guys using for the little breather filter on the inlet hat ? Think this one would work ? RU-0800 Shape: Round straight
Length (in): 4.000 in.
Inlet Flange Inside Diameter (in): 2.438 in.
Top Diameter (in): 3.500 in.
Bottom Diameter (in): 3.500 in.


Rob (Bad30th)

Last edited by Bad30th; Sep 26, 2006 at 08:28 PM.
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Old Sep 26, 2006 | 07:42 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by BOONE
I believe I used a ru1785 with the twins and stock accordion hose, but it had to be sort of padded with foam to avoid denting and wear through. I would just measure what you have for space and go to k&ns website and look. That's what I did and went with just the hat and filter as well as a small one on the other opening. Now I'm using the rf1004 its dimensions are; base 5.75", top 5" with metal cap and 1/4by 20 stud, flange is 10 degree angle by 1.75" length, length 12.125", with the hat only and filter it comes out to just short of the fender enough to miss with engine movement. The bolt is right under the lip under there where the ati cover plates go. I just cut mine in a L shape for stiffening and drilled a hole in it for a hanger. Was perfect.
can you take a picture of this so i can get a reference of whats involved.
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Old Sep 27, 2006 | 04:49 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by WAHUSKER
I assume you are running the stock radiator Bob. How tight is the elbow vs the rad? I want one, but with my 2" Be-Cool, I'm not sure it will fit. I see you had to notch the corner of the support, I do NOT want to have to move the support forward.

PS you should include the little K&N filter for the bypass valve in your kit too, since most people still run the stock config.
You can use the elbow if you don't have a.c. and you can move the radiator up to where the condensor was located.

Not a bad idea on including the K&N for the bypass valve, although we have had a lot of people tell us they are running a larger race style bypass, and they would just weld on a larger flange. What we need to do is to have a list of options available. Thanks! Bob
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Old Sep 27, 2006 | 05:04 AM
  #26  
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I'm gonna use a 9" green filter on my turbo build. Got it for cheap from some jungle website Looks pimp and I have heard nothing but great things about them.
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