Procharger Intake Air Temps IAT
Procharger Intake Air Temps IAT I recently installed an aeroforce guage in my car
I am really obsessed with my temps now!
Just dont know what is normal?
This morning it was in the 40's outside & cruising my
intake temp was in the 50's but spiked up to 85!
Sustained full thottle. I cannot imagine what it is when
its hot out. I am running the bigger procharger intercoolers,
and 8psi boost. Probably will never run more that 11psi
or 650RWHP max. I am at 500RWHP on the Dynojet now.
I have been thinking of intalling a LT1 radiator to help my
coolent temps. So last night I took a look at my radiator
and I had some crud in it. I vacummed most of it out.
I ended up ripping out all the plastic dam. Not the bottom one.
(2pcs in front of the AC Condenser) I was thinking opening it
up would help with stop & go temps, BUT may be bad for
Air intake temp because the Intake Plenum is right above it.
I cant believe that the procharger heats the air that much.
I am really obsessed with my temps now!
Just dont know what is normal?
This morning it was in the 40's outside & cruising my
intake temp was in the 50's but spiked up to 85!
Sustained full thottle. I cannot imagine what it is when
its hot out. I am running the bigger procharger intercoolers,
and 8psi boost. Probably will never run more that 11psi
or 650RWHP max. I am at 500RWHP on the Dynojet now.
I have been thinking of intalling a LT1 radiator to help my
coolent temps. So last night I took a look at my radiator
and I had some crud in it. I vacummed most of it out.
I ended up ripping out all the plastic dam. Not the bottom one.
(2pcs in front of the AC Condenser) I was thinking opening it
up would help with stop & go temps, BUT may be bad for
Air intake temp because the Intake Plenum is right above it.
I cant believe that the procharger heats the air that much.
Take the intercoolers off and see what happens 
That seems about normal for the stock twins, my car goes from 80 to 130* on a 65 degree day in 9.3 seconds with a giant front mount IC. Compressing air makes heat, cant do much about it.
That seems about normal for the stock twins, my car goes from 80 to 130* on a 65 degree day in 9.3 seconds with a giant front mount IC. Compressing air makes heat, cant do much about it.
It seems normal... I had a temp increase of 40-50 degrees when i was running 8psi and around 70F when i was running 13psi. I had the 3.5" intercoolers though. Do u have the plastic deflectors installed right under the intercoolers? I mean are they titled to push air upward or downward? Some people have them titled the wrong way which could make them less efficient.
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From: Castro Valley, CA
Compressing air makes heat, cant do much about it.
Why not add a methanol kit? That makes watching your IAT's very fun:
I'm not sure how useful a 25 degree IAT is, but the point is that you can drop ambient by over 30 degrees. I'm using the Alkycontrol kit, mine starts to ramp in at about 3 psi. Max boost on that graph was about 11.3 psi.
Last edited by RW99; Dec 7, 2006 at 12:36 PM.
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Ya, maybe you can explain your graph to us? That doesn't look like a boost "curve" I've ever seen. Is the time scale extremely compressed? You make 13+ psi instantly?
55 in HG/2 -14.3 or so for atm press.
Overdriven roots flipping the throttle open for a flash?
55 in HG/2 -14.3 or so for atm press.
Overdriven roots flipping the throttle open for a flash?
Originally Posted by LSs1Power
It seems normal... I had a temp increase of 40-50 degrees when i was running 8psi and around 70F when i was running 13psi. I had the 3.5" intercoolers though. Do u have the plastic deflectors installed right under the intercoolers? I mean are they titled to push air upward or downward? Some people have them titled the wrong way which could make them less efficient.
pretty much level. I was thinking of shimming the back
of them down to catch more air.
Would venting the bypass valve to the atmosphere help?
What size filter would I need for the extra spot on the hat?
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From: Castro Valley, CA
Sorry. It's just an autotap log from a little freeway driving. X scale is in seconds; Y scales are MAP in blue (inches Hg) and IAT in orange (degrees F). The boost "spike" is just me going WOT for maybe five seconds or so.
And yes, (~53 in. Hg X 0.4912) - 14.7 for the boost psi calculation. Also what the Eboost logged for max boost on that little run.
And yes, (~53 in. Hg X 0.4912) - 14.7 for the boost psi calculation. Also what the Eboost logged for max boost on that little run.
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Originally Posted by mondi2002
Yeah thet have the flaps on them but they are
pretty much level. I was thinking of shimming the back
of them down to catch more air.
Would venting the bypass valve to the atmosphere help?
What size filter would I need for the extra spot on the hat?
pretty much level. I was thinking of shimming the back
of them down to catch more air.
Would venting the bypass valve to the atmosphere help?
What size filter would I need for the extra spot on the hat?
My valve wasnt vented to atmoshpere at the time. I read somewhere that people had better results with them vented to the atmosphere.
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Originally Posted by mondi2002
Yeah thet have the flaps on them but they are
pretty much level. I was thinking of shimming the back
of them down to catch more air.
Would venting the bypass valve to the atmosphere help?
What size filter would I need for the extra spot on the hat?
pretty much level. I was thinking of shimming the back
of them down to catch more air.
Would venting the bypass valve to the atmosphere help?
What size filter would I need for the extra spot on the hat?
yeah I'd like to know if you can vent it to the atmosphere too
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Originally Posted by RW99
Sorry. It's just an autotap log from a little freeway driving. X scale is in seconds; Y scales are MAP in blue (inches Hg) and IAT in orange (degrees F). The boost "spike" is just me going WOT for maybe five seconds or so.
And yes, (~53 in. Hg X 0.4912) - 14.7 for the boost psi calculation. Also what the Eboost logged for max boost on that little run.
And yes, (~53 in. Hg X 0.4912) - 14.7 for the boost psi calculation. Also what the Eboost logged for max boost on that little run.
I have some non-intercooled logs from a carbureted car, but I doubt anybody is interested in that here. I currently measure SC inlet, hat and plenum temps. So far the carburetor is pulling over 90 degrees out of the air at max boost. This is a similar phenomenon that could be experienced by methanol, though injected methanol is going to be at a lower volume.
Rolling down the road the fuel will drop the temp in the plenum below inlet. The SC adds about 20-30 degrees to the inlet temp depending on how fast I'm driving and the blower is spinning.
Originally Posted by Mark98SS
Those twins don't get a whole lot of flow & the total surface area is pretty small. A 12x24 front mount will drop the IATs by 30-40 down the track.
May be able to fit one in front of the Air dam.
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I have yet to see any definitive back to back tests on the twins vs. a front mount. The twins work much better than many give them credit for. The F-body is a bottom breather and they get substanitial air. Even high output "blue fans" can't come close to match the air volume and velocity of on road/track use. I want to see some data on pre I/C and post I/C temp with both setups, and not just factory OBDII IAT data from one point.
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From: Long Island, NY
Id like to see a comparision of the NEW STAGE II kit twin intercoolers that are sheetmetal and 4.5"
About to put that kit on my zo6. I think belt slip problems have been totally eliminated with this new kit as well.
About to put that kit on my zo6. I think belt slip problems have been totally eliminated with this new kit as well.
Originally Posted by andereck
I have yet to see any definitive back to back tests on the twins vs. a front mount. The twins work much better than many give them credit for. The F-body is a bottom breather and they get substanitial air. Even high output "blue fans" can't come close to match the air volume and velocity of on road/track use. I want to see some data on pre I/C and post I/C temp with both setups, and not just factory OBDII IAT data from one point.
Originally Posted by andereck
I have yet to see any definitive back to back tests on the twins vs. a front mount. The twins work much better than many give them credit for. The F-body is a bottom breather and they get substanitial air. Even high output "blue fans" can't come close to match the air volume and velocity of on road/track use. I want to see some data on pre I/C and post I/C temp with both setups, and not just factory OBDII IAT data from one point.
I can give you an answer on this once everything goes back together. I can leave the same pulley i had on the blower just for a few runs to log in the IAT. We were reaching 140F in 70F ambient at 13psi. We will see what the IAT increase with the FMIC.
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From: Boostville
Originally Posted by mondi2002
Would venting the bypass valve to the atmosphere help?
What size filter would I need for the extra spot on the hat?
What size filter would I need for the extra spot on the hat?
YES!!!
Venting to the Atmoshere, helps normal driving IAT's A LOT!
As others have stated the trade off is the sound. It's a bit louder with the air rushing around. I place filters on the ends of the Bypass valve, not to keep the dirt out (cause it's always blowing out) but to just hush the sound a bit on street cars.
Most people plug the hole in the hat with some form of rubber cap. Or take a peice of hose, then place a metal plug in the end of the hose.
Hope that helps,
EA