6.0l heads
#2
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It is a great idea to get 6L heads because they have larger chambers, which will lower your compression, which will allow you to run more boost safely because lower compression fights detonation. It is not neccessary to get a 6.0L block unless you plan on running 700+rwhp which would require you to buy forged pistons and rods. If you plan on running the norm of 450-500 rwhp with a bolt-on kit, you can stay with the stock aluminum block/internals. Just get the 6L heads with better springs, some good head gaskets and a stronger timing chain. A ported oil wouldn't hurt either. Then again, neither would some ARP head studs. They wouldn't be neccessary either but a good amount of people blow head gaskets with forced induction and if you're like me and can't find someone to tune your car right, you might end up buying enough stock TTY head bolts that you could of bought the reuseable studs to begin with. See, that right there is how it snowballs....
#3
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Don't forget a stronger clutch, an intank fuel pump, and 42 lb injectors (at least) as well. Honestly, once you do forced induction you will never feel satified with the power you have and will always want more and upgrade so just go ahead and save yourself the hassle and do some 60lb fuel injectors now. If you're smart and don't have a lot of money just forget forced induction all together. It will nickel and dime you to death. Read the sticky about the cost of FI. If I could do it over I would have bought a home.
#7
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Originally Posted by SSilverSSurfer
are the valves out of the 243 heads interchangeable with the 6.0 heads? what about springs and stuff?
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#8
Originally Posted by 1fstSS
is it a good idea to get a 6.0l block and heads if I'm planning on getting a d1sc kit
The aluminum block can handle a lot of power.
Here is our complete D-1SC kit price.
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=798 Bob