Gotta be zip tied though. My shiny coating is not shiny anymore...just dull grey 
Got the first of my OFI parts!!
Cablebandit, Do you have anymore pics of your intercooler setup and piping to it from the turbo and up to the engine? Im having a hell of a time trying to figure out how to mount the thing.
Thanks!
Thanks!
looks great!!
looks familar too... hmmm..
I got my parts in also.. My BOV flange is different and i believe yours is for a t4. Nice kit huh? Let see who gets it running first huh?!
looks familar too... hmmm..
I got my parts in also.. My BOV flange is different and i believe yours is for a t4. Nice kit huh? Let see who gets it running first huh?!
Something you might want to try. Due to how tight the header are on mine I went with some taylor thunder volt 50 plugs with 135degree boots. I cut them down to make them fit perfect. They look great and have perfect clearence. If you want to go they way then order the standard thundervolt50 plugs and 135degree boot connectors.
Quality of the welding sucks big time and I have the exp to say that because I am a CWI (Certified Welding Inspector)
Quality of the welding sucks big time and I have the exp to say that because I am a CWI (Certified Welding Inspector)
Originally Posted by 1INSANEGTO
Quality of the welding sucks big time and I have the exp to say that because I am a CWI (Certified Welding Inspector)
... those welds are fine for a turbo kit. I have seen worse and I have made worse welds 
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Originally Posted by 1INSANEGTO
Hmmm lets see pressure high heat....
Well it took its first FI breath at 9 Pm Last night! i had to run it open down pipe because i need to get another walker clamp as the down pipe is the same size of my cat back... kinda pisses me off... i had to clearance just about every part to work w/o rubbing or banging on something except the radiator... that fit like a glove.
I understand about having to cut the intercooler pipes to fit but having to dent the down pipe in certain spots to clear the steering shaft and alternator rear most bracket
It fired right up and ran like a million bucks, no leaks... loud with open DP though hahha
turbo makes no noise idling or free reving, if i bring it up to about 2500 and hold it there it will start to quietly spin up.
Still need fans yet to be able to put the front end back on and drive it...
I understand about having to cut the intercooler pipes to fit but having to dent the down pipe in certain spots to clear the steering shaft and alternator rear most bracket
It fired right up and ran like a million bucks, no leaks... loud with open DP though hahha
turbo makes no noise idling or free reving, if i bring it up to about 2500 and hold it there it will start to quietly spin up.
Still need fans yet to be able to put the front end back on and drive it...
thats awesome!!
Even though the kit is designed to leave the alternator in the stock location, you could always relocate it like everyone else on top. Or, which was suggested by a few ppl, save off the rear bolt/bracket of the alternator... that should yield a bit more room.
besides that, i had a feeling the downpipe would need a bit or massage... its a TIGHT squeeze through there so a little ding to make things fit flush wont fill ya. Look at it this way, when your ripping it up out there, on gto's for example, that little ding wont even be in the back of your head.
laterZ!
Even though the kit is designed to leave the alternator in the stock location, you could always relocate it like everyone else on top. Or, which was suggested by a few ppl, save off the rear bolt/bracket of the alternator... that should yield a bit more room.
besides that, i had a feeling the downpipe would need a bit or massage... its a TIGHT squeeze through there so a little ding to make things fit flush wont fill ya. Look at it this way, when your ripping it up out there, on gto's for example, that little ding wont even be in the back of your head.
laterZ!
Not any more pics on me right now that show its fitment. Honestly that was the best fitting part in the kit.
It took FOREVER to get coolant into and full through that little tank that comes with the kit on the driver side of the car. H ad to use a little compressed air to help force feed it on there... Even with the cross over tube/vent loose on the heads to allow an air escape... Took about 3 gallons on coolant before i finally had coolant coming out that head vents.
It supposed to have 2 SPAL 13" pushers that are powered by the stock wiring harness. But those are taking a long time... im gonna just order them my self this week so i can drive this thing.
I have to drill a hole for the IAT yet and meth injection nozzle in the upper feed pipe.
It took FOREVER to get coolant into and full through that little tank that comes with the kit on the driver side of the car. H ad to use a little compressed air to help force feed it on there... Even with the cross over tube/vent loose on the heads to allow an air escape... Took about 3 gallons on coolant before i finally had coolant coming out that head vents.
It supposed to have 2 SPAL 13" pushers that are powered by the stock wiring harness. But those are taking a long time... im gonna just order them my self this week so i can drive this thing.
I have to drill a hole for the IAT yet and meth injection nozzle in the upper feed pipe.
Originally Posted by RealQuick
I have seen many shops put out less quality welds and they work fine. Its all in the design of the kit. I am sure you would want to argue this all day since you have in the past (and this relates to your field). This will be my last post about the welds since I dont want to add to the uneccessary **** in his buildup thread. Back on topic here for the thread starter....
