sup yalls. im turnin my parts car into my drag car turbo project. heres what i got now

6.0L iron block i need to figure out a stroker combo or what i should bore it out to.

85mm MAF

i was gonna start at 9:1 compression. with forged pistons I beam rods and whatever crank for a stroker or just a stock crank

85mm professional products intake

set of 317 heads
or
set of 873 heads

headman long tubes

sts turbo and wastegate flange pipe
-garrett turbo
-turbo exhaust outlet pipe (dumped)
-Turbo inlet filter 3" inlet
-all piping 2.5" from turbo outlet up to OBX fmic, from fmic to TB
-all t-bolt clamps required
-all silicone connecttors needed
-50mm BOV (Tial knock off works great though)
-38mm Wastegate (Tial knock off works great though)
-OBX fmic (Forgot dem but the one that fits good on f-bodies)
-SVT 42 lb fuel injectors less than 2k miles
-Oil pump Mocal used for oil return
-all neccessary fittings and hoses etc.
-All pcv hoses and cehck valves
- greddy PCV catch can
-2 1/16" auto meter boost gauge
-All hoses for wastegate and blow off valve with mainfold to tap into brake booster
-turbonetics manual boost controller
^ kit i bought

im thinkin about running a 4L65E tranny with a 4400 converter

upgrading to a 4link 9"

havent found out on a cam yet
havent got the nitrous kit yet
need a fbody oil pan

so opinions where i can start gettin this planned out better are appreciated. one of my bigger questions the MAP sensor. i saw holley has one thats is for boosted applications part number 538-18
link http://holley.com/538-13.asp do ineed this or do i use the stock one and when it gets re-tuned it will be reconfigured for the boost?

and im probably changin the air to air IC and getting a water to air IC.

im sure im forgetting stuff but ill be adding as i remember and get started.

- Scottie

 

Sorry if I missed it, but what car is this going into?

Heres a few things you'll need (strongly recommended).
-wideband and fuel pressure gauges
-bigger 60lb injectors (42lb wont cut it with how much hp you can make)
-run a dual walbro in-tank and a return system with VAFPR
-stick with 2.25" charge piping unless your pushing 700+. My understanding is that the stock 2.25" is not a restriction until you get in the higher numbers. You can run 3" to the TB. and try for a 4" downpipe right off the housing.
-dump the mocal and get a nice pump built for oil exchange. Reverso/enginegear are both nice units for the money.
-watch for boost creep and leaks with the knock off Tial brands
-consider at least a T76 for those cubes
-317s are good budget head for lowering the compression to around 9.5 on a stock ls1. Not sure what setup your going with so you may be lower depending on pistons ect.

goodluck and keep us posted with plenty of pics

edit: while your at it, skip right to a built 80e

 

hey thanks for the advice now for the questions on it. and sorry i forgot to mention. this is goin in a 1998 camaro. pics of car in sig. about to cut front stub off and put in new front stub. then i gotta get the lt1 nose put on.

1. on the wideband who should i go with?
2. what psi should i push at most cuz im thinkin of gettin the ultralite autometer fuel pressure 0-30 psi
link http://autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail...id=3292&sid=11
3. whats the difference in injectors cuz im still tryin to understand these. is it like the jetting sizes in a holley?
4. most of the intank pumps i've seen say they are for 99+. my problem is its goin in a 1998 camaro. is the wiring any different between a dual intank pump and a factory pump? with running a nitrous system small shot but still a shot none the less how will i tie into the tank with fuel back up lines?
5. the 4L80E is there any difference in what flex plate or converter id have to use and im not to sure on if ill have to notch the tranny tunnel or not when i swap transmissions.


something else i was thinkin about getting the ls1scanmaster part # 518ls1scan
link: http://www.tbyrnemotorsports.com/ls1catalog.html