best head studs?
i had nothing but bad luck with the cometics on my syclone. i kept having trouble with the back two cylinders, even with the boost down at 12-15lbs. that was iron block and iron heads, all had freshly been surfaced and with arp studs. maybe just try a different gasket.
I just got a set of ARP2000 head studs from ARP for $375.
Their tech guy Jay mentioned that the L19 material is prone to
hydrogen embrittlement which means they can develop cracks and
break as a result of internal stress fractures from rust.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_embrittlement
He said the ARP 2000 material is much stronger than the
standard 8740 material, but not quite as strong as the L19's.
ARP suggested that if you have a street driven car, where it is impractical to remove the head studs for frequent inspection, that the ARP2000 studs will
live a much longer life.
I think they have a few more sets left.
Their tech guy Jay mentioned that the L19 material is prone to
hydrogen embrittlement which means they can develop cracks and
break as a result of internal stress fractures from rust.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_embrittlement
He said the ARP 2000 material is much stronger than the
standard 8740 material, but not quite as strong as the L19's.
ARP suggested that if you have a street driven car, where it is impractical to remove the head studs for frequent inspection, that the ARP2000 studs will
live a much longer life.
I think they have a few more sets left.
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
Originally Posted by parish8
i had the heads surfaced and they still blew out in one run. this time i am going to go with new head studs and recheck the trueness of the heads. we are also going to check the head material. we were told by afr that we want 100 "rockwell" and that 90 was geting too low.
block is iron, studs wouldn't pull out of that would they?
can you check the block deck with it in the truck still?
block is iron, studs wouldn't pull out of that would they?
can you check the block deck with it in the truck still?
I doubt studs would pull out of iron either.
I would have thought the smoother the finish on the heads, the better ?? and indeed the block ? especially with MLS type gaskets.
I know many dont seem to like them...but have you considered trying some of the ICS Titan gaskets ?
Some people have had bad luck with them, but there are some success stories too.
At this point, although its a lot of hassle to try.....its easier than machining work for rings etc. And normal gaskets seem to be blowing anyway ?
Don't waste your money on these super expensive head studs. The clamping force is not the problem. Your not stretching out your studs. We have been doing this for years and have never blown out a gasket. Get rid of the Cometics. I've told you what works for us. I could run 20psi thru full exhaust. Run a high 8 in full street trim which was close to 3800lbs and not push a drop of water.
Originally Posted by TwnTrboCE
Don't waste your money on these super expensive head studs. The clamping force is not the problem. Your not stretching out your studs. We have been doing this for years and have never blown out a gasket. Get rid of the Cometics. I've told you what works for us. I could run 20psi thru full exhaust. Run a high 8 in full street trim which was close to 3800lbs and not push a drop of water.
Originally Posted by Alex @ CMS
A1 fasteners, they can make a stock diameter stud that will take 140lb/ft tq.
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
oddly...although every combo is different.
I ran stock GM MLS, regular ARP studs to 80lbft with pump fuel/meth for over a year, and had no HG issues until my meth stopped working one day.
Thats almost 10k, maybe 70+ passes of varying ET's and speeds, but a good few close to 150mph.
Hopefully my freshen up will go better, and be equally as reliable.
I ran stock GM MLS, regular ARP studs to 80lbft with pump fuel/meth for over a year, and had no HG issues until my meth stopped working one day.
Thats almost 10k, maybe 70+ passes of varying ET's and speeds, but a good few close to 150mph.
Hopefully my freshen up will go better, and be equally as reliable.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Five Reasons the Camaro Was the Most Pivotal Player in the Pony Car Wars 2.0
Brett Foote
10 Reasons the LS7 Is GM's Most Extreme Naturally Aspirated V8 Engine Ever
Verdad Gallardo
Maybe that's something they told you. The ARP guy told me $419 + S&H, but there'd be a 2-3 week waiting period as they didn't / were out of stock (don't remember exactly) of the L19 material.
I am running L-19's on mine. Made sure I coated them good with lube when I installed them. Toruqed them to 90. The only parts that are exposed to moisture would be the tip of the stud. Mine have been in for a year now and no signs of corrosion or anything. I have yet to put boost to it tho 
Gettin there.
Gettin there.
Originally Posted by Jimmy P
Thats odd..My buddy called, and asked for the L19 head studs for the LS1 motor, and they said that they couldn't sell us them..hmmm.. Has anyone ordered them directly from ARP?
Originally Posted by Beaflag VonRathburg
Mind telling us again for those of us who've missed it?
Originally Posted by TwnTrboCE
You don't need 6 bolt heads. Your log manifolds are fine. Run the #8 plugs. Oring the heads and run GM MLS gaskets. 
What does your timing look like when the boost is ramping in? The torque load on that thing is crazy. There may be your problem.
What does your timing look like when the boost is ramping in? The torque load on that thing is crazy. There may be your problem.
Originally Posted by BlkHwk
I am running L-19's on mine. Made sure I coated them good with lube when I installed them. Toruqed them to 90. The only parts that are exposed to moisture would be the tip of the stud. Mine have been in for a year now and no signs of corrosion or anything. I have yet to put boost to it tho
Gettin there.
Gettin there.
I think the other variable at work in head sealing is the heads themselves...AFR mentioned to Parish that he wants to be at a hardness of 100 rockwell...what about deck thickness differences between the aftermarket heads some guys are running, and the GM castings other guys are running? Thats gotta be a good part of the issue as well.
I'm curious to try to figure out what to do as I'm getting ready to start assembling my boosted iron block 370, and I want to learn from as many other people's experiences as I can before I jump in and do it.
I'm curious to try to figure out what to do as I'm getting ready to start assembling my boosted iron block 370, and I want to learn from as many other people's experiences as I can before I jump in and do it.
Originally Posted by Beaflag VonRathburg
How often do you drive the car? I didn't know about this until someone mentioned it. I also live a block away from the beach and the land of 90%+ every day humidity.
Not very, I don't even have 1k miles on the new motor yet.
