There are a couple of ideas I have stirring in my head that I want to do. I'll add to this list as I remember things.

1. I'd like to use a stainless drain - NO rubber! I know it'll need to be a -10...has anyone done this before? I know I'll need a 90* elbow at the pan and some line, but what will I need to thread into the bottom of the blower?

2. Thinking about a FMIC. I have the aftercooled version but I've been told heatsoak is its flaw. Is it possible to clock the blower outlet down/towards the drivers tire?

3. Bypass valve. I want one thats a little more audible. Anyone used a Procharger Race, Vortech Mondo, or something of the sorts?

 

Well I just used 1/2" stainless from the drain strait down to the 90 they supplied with the kit with a small 2" piece of rubber for the connection it worked great and it didn't get caught up with the belt cutting into it etc... The FMIC thing has been done I don't know if it was a gain as you will lose a lot to presure drop from the long run of piping and FMIC so I just install a snow meth kit and used my factory washer resivor for meth. The BOV you are talking about would require either a SD tune or relocating the MAF down stream of the BOV. GL!

 

I don't know why people believe this. We're only talking about maybe 4' of tubing which will not yield a measurable drop in boost. The bends cost something - Corky Bell quotes a 3% psi loss for a tight-radius 90 degree bend, so if you started with 10# of boost you would be left with 9.7# after the bend. A wider radius 90 degree might only cost you 1.5%. Those losses are seen in an aftercooler setup as well.

The V-9 volute can be clocked pretty much 360 degrees around its gearbox, but your brackets and plumbing may need to be very different for clearance. I clock my V-2 straight down.

Now throw in the fact that a properly sized A2A with good airflow to/from it will recover more quickly than a A2W setup, and maintain its efficiency better during road-race type driving and you've got a winning combo. Again, if it's properly sized the A2A should result in less than 1.5psi loss at max boost through the IC. I've only ever measured a max psi loss at the FMIC of about .6 psi at 12# of boost on a 383.

I designed a large Bell FMIC into my Vortech setup and get the same IAT's on run #20 as I do on the first run of the day, where some of my friends with A2W setups start heating up after the 2nd run and start slowing down.

As for the bypass, like Inspector12 mentions (I know he meant bypass not BOV) if you keep the MAF setup the bypass must be located after the MAF and dump back into the system ahead of the blower. If you switch to an SD tune with MAP sensor, you can dump your bypass into the air and it is a lot louder. I dump my Mondo back before the blower and can't hear a thing.

I don't have it in front of me but I did replace the drain on my Vortech V-2 with an Earl's adapter to a -8 AN stainless hose. It's not an exotic fitting. Probably don't need a -10. A -8 is a half inch inner diameter and is fine for a Vortech drain. Can't speak to the 90 degree fitting as I don't have an F-body.

Jim

My Site: http://home.mindspring.com/~jim_fisk/id1.html

 

As far as presure drop that I was speaking of, maybe a lot was not the best description of what I meant. What I was really meaning is the G-trim is challenged as it is and any loss and it will be noticable on a boost gauge it was about 2psi on the one setup I know of with an FMIC. So 2 psi on is a decent loss of boost presure and power is all I am saying.

 

My YSi came with a 1/2" drain. And I use rubber. Never had a problem with it.

When you see the size of the oil feed that supplies the blower ( via the small jet ), even a 3/8" drain would probably do......or perhaps smaller !!!!!

 

When I ran a T-trim I lost 3 lbs. going from the aftercooler to a FMIC (12 to 9). I did gain 2 back by switching the MAF to the pressure side. I also reduced IAT's from appr. 170 to 130 degrees. I kept the FMIC because I don't have to worry about cooling the water down between runs or overheating the water when driving aggressively. I do think that the aftercooler could work really well with a high boost setup if you used an ice tank and a high flow water pump. I feel that it could flow better than most might think. I might steal the ice chest and pump from the race car one day and throw the aftercooler back on to see how it does.

 

With sufficient water capacity, and water cooling, an A2W is hard to beat.

A2A is often just easier and cheaper to get good results.