Forced Induction Superchargers | Turbochargers | Intercoolers

My custom intercooler setup

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Old Mar 13, 2008 | 08:52 AM
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Nice dude!
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Old Mar 13, 2008 | 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 1INSANEGTO
I am not sure where you guys get your intercoolers but its no where near $500.00-$800.00 to do a custom intercooler like that or any custom setup for that matter. Just a lil bit over what you spent and professional done. Should have looked me up
Well if you want to get technical. You quoted me $475. So yes, I still saved a good amount of money.

Thanks for the comments. So does anyone know about the Tial BOV width??
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Old Mar 13, 2008 | 01:48 PM
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Nice set-up!
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Old Mar 13, 2008 | 04:14 PM
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I don't mean to rag on your welds, because they look pretty good for a beginner. The aluminum welds look pretty good, but I would have cleaned the aluminum better before welding. The only problem I see is in the mild steel tig weld. I dont believe you used enough heat. On the left side of the weld you can see small spots where the weld puddle flowed to the bottom piece, that is what it should look like the whole way down. If that is structural to the car, I would have added a little more heat and filler to it. That is just my .02. I think you are doing great for just starting tig welding though.
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Old Mar 13, 2008 | 11:05 PM
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Question for you guys that have been there and done that.

I just got my intercooler yesterday (31wX12tX3") and I was looking at where I plan on mounting it and I just noticed that that flap on the bottom of the bumper cover that wraps up from the bottom and acts as a guide for directing the air up into the radiator looks like it will have to be cut. What kind of trimming are you guys having to do to the bumper cover?
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 01:50 AM
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Originally Posted by 99345hp
I don't mean to rag on your welds, because they look pretty good for a beginner. The aluminum welds look pretty good, but I would have cleaned the aluminum better before welding. The only problem I see is in the mild steel tig weld. I dont believe you used enough heat. On the left side of the weld you can see small spots where the weld puddle flowed to the bottom piece, that is what it should look like the whole way down. If that is structural to the car, I would have added a little more heat and filler to it. That is just my .02. I think you are doing great for just starting tig welding though.
No problem at all. I want to be a chassis fabricator some day, so bring on the constructive criticism. But I don't understand what you mean about the weld not flowing on the bottom piece. It looks to me that it's an even amount on both sides... but I'm no expert.
Which aluminum weld needed to be cleaned more? The intercooler or piping? Cause on the intercooler, I scraped the **** out of it with a wire brush and wiped it down before I started a new bead. The intake piping I mildly cleaned.. I didn't want a bunch of scratches on it.
Here are some more mild steel tig weld pictures. Give me your input.






I just got my intercooler yesterday (31wX12tX3") and I was looking at where I plan on mounting it and I just noticed that that flap on the bottom of the bumper cover that wraps up from the bottom and acts as a guide for directing the air up into the radiator looks like it will have to be cut. What kind of trimming are you guys having to do to the bumper cover?
Go to my first pictures. Pic #7 shows the bottom bumer piece. And pic #8 shows it cut off. I think that's what your asking.
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Ralls



Go to my first pictures. Pic #7 shows the bottom bumer piece. And pic #8 shows it cut off. I think that's what your asking.
Thanks, and those are some nice welds BTW. I wish I could weld half that good.
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 01:10 PM
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The first weld looks the best. Can you see how the profile is almost flat, and the toes of the weld flow into the base metal. If you have a convex weld where the edges kind of roll over to the base metal, then you arn't using enough heat or too much filler. They all look good, but the only thing you can do is practice and practice. I weld pipe, so out techniques are a little different than free hand. It actually makes a figure 8 pattern in the weld bead. We do this for groove and fillet welds. It is called walking the cup, and it is how I would tig weld those structual pieces or a roll cage. Ill try and post some pictures to show all of you how it looks. The aluminum on the intercooler should be cleaned 1 inch from the weld bead. I use a cleaner i get from a distributor that takes all oxidation off of the aluminum. You would be surprised how much easier it is to make the puddle flow. Practice Practice Practice is all you can do to get better.
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 01:53 PM
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GOD I wish I could weld!
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by WS6HUMMER
GOD I wish I could weld!
With the way tig rigs are made now anyone can weld. Just how much $$ do you got to spend on a good one. Harbor Freight has a cheap one for $200.00 or so. Its a start
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Ralls
Well if you want to get technical. You quoted me $475. So yes, I still saved a good amount of money.

Thanks for the comments. So does anyone know about the Tial BOV width??

I'm out of town till tomorrow. If you don't have an answer by Sat night I'll measure the one on my car (when I get back to Virginia) and let ya know
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 12:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Schantin
I'm out of town till tomorrow. If you don't have an answer by Sat night I'll measure the one on my car (when I get back to Virginia) and let ya know
Sweet, appreciate it man!
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 10:08 AM
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here is an example of a groove weld on pipe.




Here is a fillet weld, which is what you will see mostly in chassis fabrication

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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 05:51 PM
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Looks good. Are those your welds? Cause I saw them on google the other day. This is the first time I've heard of that technique. I'll have to look more into it.
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 10:27 AM
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no they are not mine. I would take pictures of my welds, but you cannot bring a camera into a nuclear power plant. They kinda frown on that sort of thing. Anybody can learn the technique though, its actually very simple once your get the hang of it. It is especially usefull in out of position welds, like those on a rollcage. If you search the internet for it there are websites informing you how to do it. The basic principle of it is to think as if you are moving a heavy piece of furniture by yourself. You set the cup down on the workpiece, then roll it to one side and move the other side forward. Then lay that side down and move the other side forward. You will have to play with tungsten stickout and different size cups to get it down. If you try it and have any problems let me know and ill try to help out.
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