cablebandit

iTrader: (37)

agreed....mine still walked with the girdle but i would think this would stop a LOT of the block flex on aluminum blocks.

ALLBOTTLE

iTrader: (13)

Oversize studs with pinned Billet Caps courtesy of Agostino Race Engines and W2W

99SS-T

iTrader: (5)

I had a question about the cap pinning. Is only the cap pinned or is the block as well? If its just the caps I can do that with the engine in the car. Thanks

John

Drake

iTrader: (1)

The dowels extend from the main cap into the block. The block must be machined. The pins go between the two main cap bolts into the block.

I have an iron block, billet mains /w the dowels, plus the girdle. Overkill? Yeah, probably... that's generally how I like it.

stage274

ok pin and then girdle it, Done its cheap, its a bolt on, and it fits like a glove. No extra machine work it , plus you get more power out of it, it distributes the load across the mains, Motor that run the girdle can make more power, last years longer. Plus it blocks windage and scraps the oil of the rods.
Why if you have a choice to make you block stiffer, get more horsepower,and make your block more durable, why wouldn't you run it. Its Cheap , believe me people tell all the time , I wish I ran the girdle the first time.
All I know is it to easy to make power with these lsx's. I would never an engine with out it, because of all the benefits, and it give me a piece of mind That my $15000 turbo engine, is not going to crack a main cap, or worse, I cant afford that.
all I know is its a beautifully piece, that has been on over 500 engines over the last 3.5 years, with out a failure.
It will stabilize your bottom end period.

ALLBOTTLE

iTrader: (13)

biased much?

stage274

I not biases, before a girdle was ever made I wanted to make big power, with out buying a c5r block, the c5r was coming apart around 1100 horsepower , this was verified from wheel to wheel, now you have a choice, to stiffen up the block, and tie in all the mains,
come on when you build a house why to they put plywood on the studs, to make the stud wall square and increase the rigidity, same thing with the stud girdle.
I dont make these girdles out of easy machinable aluminum, plus you need almost 3/4 of an inch of aluminum, to have the same strength as a 1/4 in of aircraft ss steel.
to have a girdle fit under the stock oil pan and use the stock windage tray, oil pick up tube, while having to drill an oil dipstick tube hole took 6 months of design work, 10 proto types, and lots of computer analysis. This is a highly though out, and highly engineered part, that fits perfect.
Tell me what are the negative aspects about running a stud girdle on an aluminum block, beside I am the only one who can make and sell it.
I know its a good product I know what my customers tell me, and I also know what happen to lsx over time, the aluminum is not like steel, it get weaker and weaker every time it is heat cycled, so why dont you want to strengthen the stock aluminum block?

blu00rdstr

What does one of those girdles cost?

EPP

iTrader: (22)

http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=959

Here it is. Bob

NA$TY-TA

iTrader: (21)

Pin the mains with studs...... i see no reason for the girdle.....
so do others...............

stage274

call bob he will give you deal off of list price, only for people off of ls1 tech.

stage274

do you have a mechanical engineering degree? I do, guess what My girdle is a bass as part you cant deny that , looks at all the beautiful pics, it fits like a glove, no modifications what so ever, and it ties in all the mains, scraps oil off the rods and blocks windage , I love the lsx engine girdle.

Justa Z

iTrader: (17)

You should be a sales man cause that what it sounds like If your not planing on going faster then 8.50's like posted on page 1 its not worth it

NA$TY-TA

iTrader: (21)

He is trying to sell it because he made it...... some sponsors do sell it and thats how he gets around pimping it and not being a sponsor himself........

I myself am not saying it doesnt work.....im just saying im not going to use it and myself and a few others that are making quite a bit of HP didnt see it help much and are not using it again.....
Esp in an Iron block.... Alum might be a different stroy......, but from the last big thread about this some didnt see it....

We dont see it as a must use part.



Kyle

stage274

Thats what I am saying if you are running alum block use the girdle, not because I it ,or made it very affordable, because you do need it on aluminum, now on a iron block, ok fine maybe billet caps will do the job, but if you have choice to run billet caps or the girdle, and I am not saying because I made it, I would have to run the girdle , because it cheaper than billet caps, and it ties in all the mains, and you get all the benefits, less windage, and the oil
scraped off the rods.
its a good tool its made to high standards, and it will stabilize your aluminum Block. we can go back and fourth forever, but really there is no down side in running the girdle, its not like any other girdle made, were its a hassle to put on, its a unique piece made out of 304 cold rolled ss steel, sitting on top of the mains.
why not run it, it so much cheaper than billet main caps.

stage274

The trick is to run 8 using stock parts, to push the stock parts to the limit, with out breaking the bank, but when your running that fast you do need all use all the tools available, I myself do not want to run that fast I would like to have a stock aluminum block,un ported heads stock type cam, and get 25 miles to the gallon and bust a 9.99 and drive the car home with the air on, now thats cool.

John1154

I've summarized and removed parts of the oriinal quote in order to better ask my question.
Recently my 2004 GTO LS1 has been forged, and includes H/C Pkg, P1 ProCharger, etc, etc. Spoke with my installer regarding the DM Performance (stage274) "Girdle" Installer and engine builder agreed it would be a good addition.

There have been various opinions expressed for and against adding a Girdle. Since its been added, would appreciate responses, and ideas to my issue, not whether it should, or should not have been added.

The following link outlines the issue
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showpos...5&postcount=25
Might anyone, including "stage274" (DM Performance) have any ideas why my Oil psi is suffering, and if an aftermarket Oil Pump is necessary or even required. There is no problem with the stock Oil Pump. Installer and engine builder feel the issue will be resolved with an aftermarket Oil Pump.

Since the DM Girdle is already in the mix, it may or may not be he cause of the problem. Based on what "stage274" has said, this addition should almost be a plug and plug type of addition.

Since Oil psi is somewhat the life line of the engine, cannot consider pushing it, doing a dyno & upgrading the tune, or running it at the Dragstrip. Hell, I'm even afraid to go on any type of extended trip with it.