How much movement with APS turbos??
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From: Fort Worth, TX
How much movement with APS turbos?? Just tring to find out how much turbine movement is good and or bad. I know there is going to be a little side to side movement but what about front to back??? I'm going to be taking the intake tubes off and checking the turbos? Thanks Jordan
Not sure we can give you exact method of seeing if they are ok. I would think their should be no scraping of the turbo blades on the sides. The 20 g mits are normally extremely reliable turbos.
Found this for you buddy specifically on the mits turbos.
"You were doing some grinding or porting near the motor with the turbo removed. You blocked off the turbo oil drain pipe with a piece of tape. You forget to take the piece of tape and install the turbo. Start it up and instant James Bond smoke. The oil flow into the turbo has no where to go and gets pumped out the bearing seals. If your turbo does this, check the oil drain for blockage, remove it and start it up again. The turbo will be fine, it will take a few minutes of driving to burn out all the oil from the exhaust system. Also a plugged up crank case vent will cause excessive pressure to build up in the crankcase. This prevents the oil from draining out of the turbo and blows the excess oil out through the turbo seals.
The Shaft is Wobbly !!
Mitsubishi turbos use a sleeve type bearing. The shaft spins inside a bronze sleeve (see above pic). The sleeve also spins inside an outer housing. This way; if the turbo is spinning at 80,000 RPM, there is a 40,000 RPM speed differential between the shaft and sleeve, and a 40,000 RPM speed differential between the sleeve and the outer housing. This is what allows the insanely high RPMs common in a turbo. There is a gap between the shaft and sleeve and a gap between the sleeve and housing. These two gaps combined allow the compressor wheel tip to move side to side in what may look like an alarming amount. This is normal. As long as the wheel is not touching the housing, you are fine. There should be no play axially (in and out) with the compressor wheel and shaft. "
"You were doing some grinding or porting near the motor with the turbo removed. You blocked off the turbo oil drain pipe with a piece of tape. You forget to take the piece of tape and install the turbo. Start it up and instant James Bond smoke. The oil flow into the turbo has no where to go and gets pumped out the bearing seals. If your turbo does this, check the oil drain for blockage, remove it and start it up again. The turbo will be fine, it will take a few minutes of driving to burn out all the oil from the exhaust system. Also a plugged up crank case vent will cause excessive pressure to build up in the crankcase. This prevents the oil from draining out of the turbo and blows the excess oil out through the turbo seals.
The Shaft is Wobbly !!
Mitsubishi turbos use a sleeve type bearing. The shaft spins inside a bronze sleeve (see above pic). The sleeve also spins inside an outer housing. This way; if the turbo is spinning at 80,000 RPM, there is a 40,000 RPM speed differential between the shaft and sleeve, and a 40,000 RPM speed differential between the sleeve and the outer housing. This is what allows the insanely high RPMs common in a turbo. There is a gap between the shaft and sleeve and a gap between the sleeve and housing. These two gaps combined allow the compressor wheel tip to move side to side in what may look like an alarming amount. This is normal. As long as the wheel is not touching the housing, you are fine. There should be no play axially (in and out) with the compressor wheel and shaft. "
