my procharger pvc set up
05-04-2008, 07:57 PM
#1
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: new york
Posts: 606
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
my procharger pvc set up(diagram) well im sick of the poping dipstick so heres my stab at. (stock longblock with d1sc with stock pcv and no check valves)
removing all stock pvc.
moving my stock pcv valve into the driverside valve cover rear grommet. from there run 3/8 hose up to the cowl and across to the passenger side, up to the front of the passenger side head, into a catch can, then check valve , and finally to the intake manifold.
now on the passenger side valve cover that leaves two nipples.
take each nipple and run a 3/8 hose off of each, to the stock rubber y fitting i demoed out previously. from the single side of that y run a 1/2" hose to the ati hat.
ill change the ati barb out to a 1/2'' one and angle cut the threads for a better draw effect in boost. it will take a couple of barbs to splice the hoses to the factory rubber y but no big deal. i dont know if ill need a catch can for the 1/2" hose going to the intake hat but until i get it road worthy again i wont know. making it look pretty is going to take some pre formed tubing but a trip to the junkyard should take care of that!
opinions?
removing all stock pvc.
moving my stock pcv valve into the driverside valve cover rear grommet. from there run 3/8 hose up to the cowl and across to the passenger side, up to the front of the passenger side head, into a catch can, then check valve , and finally to the intake manifold.
now on the passenger side valve cover that leaves two nipples.
take each nipple and run a 3/8 hose off of each, to the stock rubber y fitting i demoed out previously. from the single side of that y run a 1/2" hose to the ati hat.
ill change the ati barb out to a 1/2'' one and angle cut the threads for a better draw effect in boost. it will take a couple of barbs to splice the hoses to the factory rubber y but no big deal. i dont know if ill need a catch can for the 1/2" hose going to the intake hat but until i get it road worthy again i wont know. making it look pretty is going to take some pre formed tubing but a trip to the junkyard should take care of that!
opinions?
Last edited by ZDOG; 05-04-2008 at 08:24 PM. Reason: adding pic
05-04-2008, 08:51 PM
#2
7 Second Club
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 790
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well im sick of the poping dipstick so heres my stab at. (stock longblock with d1sc with stock pcv and no check valves)
removing all stock pvc.
moving my stock pcv valve into the driverside valve cover rear grommet. from there run 3/8 hose up to the cowl and across to the passenger side, up to the front of the passenger side head, into a catch can, then check valve , and finally to the intake manifold.
now on the passenger side valve cover that leaves two nipples.
take each nipple and run a 3/8 hose off of each, to the stock rubber y fitting i demoed out previously. from the single side of that y run a 1/2" hose to the ati hat.
ill change the ati barb out to a 1/2'' one and angle cut the threads for a better draw effect in boost. it will take a couple of barbs to splice the hoses to the factory rubber y but no big deal. i dont know if ill need a catch can for the 1/2" hose going to the intake hat but until i get it road worthy again i wont know. making it look pretty is going to take some pre formed tubing but a trip to the junkyard should take care of that!
opinions?
removing all stock pvc.
moving my stock pcv valve into the driverside valve cover rear grommet. from there run 3/8 hose up to the cowl and across to the passenger side, up to the front of the passenger side head, into a catch can, then check valve , and finally to the intake manifold.
now on the passenger side valve cover that leaves two nipples.
take each nipple and run a 3/8 hose off of each, to the stock rubber y fitting i demoed out previously. from the single side of that y run a 1/2" hose to the ati hat.
ill change the ati barb out to a 1/2'' one and angle cut the threads for a better draw effect in boost. it will take a couple of barbs to splice the hoses to the factory rubber y but no big deal. i dont know if ill need a catch can for the 1/2" hose going to the intake hat but until i get it road worthy again i wont know. making it look pretty is going to take some pre formed tubing but a trip to the junkyard should take care of that!
opinions?
You need to riun all the hoses off the motor to the catch can then from the catch can to the inlet hat. I have two going to the CC and then two from the CC to the inlet hat. You just need to draw a vacuum on the motor thru the CC. If your dipstick keeps popping out you couls have a broken ringland...I'm a voice of experience on that.
Good luck.
05-04-2008, 08:58 PM
#3
What are the benefits of having a line going to procharger hat? We made a 4" elbow, and haven't connected any hose barbs to it yet, and am wondering if we could get away without it. What is it doing, other than getting oil all over the intercooler and piping?
05-04-2008, 09:03 PM
#4
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: new york
Posts: 606
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well i can blow air both ways through my stock pcv valve easily.(so i must have been boosting through it) im trying to keep a stock style pcv system. which the way drawn should do that. the fresh air will come from the intake hat at idle and part throttle.
then in boost , the checkvalve closes. the two nipples to a larger hose should help a little draw on the crankcase and give one more vent then i had originally. ( stock had two 3/8 hoses y to a single 3/8 hose. ill have two 3/8 hoses y to a 1/2 inch hose.) all barbs and fittings will be of proper size to minimize flow restrictions.
my only concern is oil mist getting to the intake hat but i wont be able to tell until i run it.
i hear you on the ringlands, ive been pricing shortblocks! lol
then in boost , the checkvalve closes. the two nipples to a larger hose should help a little draw on the crankcase and give one more vent then i had originally. ( stock had two 3/8 hoses y to a single 3/8 hose. ill have two 3/8 hoses y to a 1/2 inch hose.) all barbs and fittings will be of proper size to minimize flow restrictions.
my only concern is oil mist getting to the intake hat but i wont be able to tell until i run it.
i hear you on the ringlands, ive been pricing shortblocks! lol
05-04-2008, 09:04 PM
#5
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: new york
Posts: 606
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
barb on hat installed on a stock motor that barb is used for the fresh air in to the crankcase. it takes the place of the hose from the top of your throttle body to the valve cover.
05-05-2008, 03:37 PM
#7
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: new york
Posts: 606
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
any pics of your intake pipe? twin intercoolers or front mount?
