the head lifting COULD be attributed to just a bunch of horsepower

but the valve failing came something else

whenever i did this type of stuff 427 kept telling me it was the fuel until i finally started listening. i kinda listen now anyways.

 

The valve is just plain old heat.

 

basically running stock timing + 9:1 + meth + 93 pump is not safe.

I would suggest for something like that you run straight 110 at least.

I've run similar mph 144-145 with YSi and turbo, and both instances I was running about 19 degrees of timing plus race gas. YSi was 18 psi and 680rwhp thru a th400.

I'm driving around on 15 psi on pump gas, feels like high 130's, maybe maybe 140mph but if I ran the standing mile I'd run straight 110.

 

Everybodies just about got you covered on reasons and issues and what to do to fix them. I will add the heads can be repaired, replace the valves also. GL sorry to here your down. As for the parts you asked about I would look at an ERL prepped LS2 they have a 6 bolt option and is supposed to be bad *** ( I am sure that it is.)If for cost reasons SDPC can get you a standard LS2 or L92 which I believe is better, and all the parts you listed except maybe the ARP head studs and if you don't do anything different get the L19's or the ARP 2000 material head studs more clamping force and strength. You can to use the AP steel blower rings by Total Seal or Kurt at W2W can get you a set of there custom rings for about the same amount that will withstand the abuse. GL.

 

W2W is done with consumer stuff, they have gone in a different direction. Kurt has a new gig on his own though. "427" on here.

 

Wow! That's definetly hardcore. I would have done the same thing running it after driving that far. Sorry about the damage.

 

In the years Ive been using an LS1....

My timing for the most part has always been up around 26deg with meth, hence Ive left it there.
When I was running 148-149mph, it was at 26deg for most of that year ( 2006 ), with barely a single problem all year. 2007, and now 2008 have been more problematic.

This year, on dyno at start of year, one of the few times Ive managed to get to one.....we set the timing at around 18degrees, this on straight pump fuel only. But we were having missfires, due to weak spark ( not on LS1 coils ). Simply couldnt try the 50/50 I intended using at that time due to crap spark.

Im back up around 80/20 meth/water now.

I rectified that and another few problems, and the car finally revved properly. 7300rpm wasnt a problem now.
When I started using meth again, I kept increasing timing back to where I was, and it did seem to improve traps a little....probably not enough passes for any definative results though. Traps were still down on my bests of over a year and a half ago.
Car felt way better....just obviously wasnt making the same power for some reason ???

Generally speaking, I have never had head gasket problems. The only times Ive had to swap gaskets, are due to detonation incidents. First one the meth system failed due to an unrelated wiring problem.
So that failure was to be expected. It was more a lifting event.

This failure has been the 2nd...and rather catastrophic. So I dont think I need better studs or gaskets just yet ?? or indeed the 6 bolts...which would necessitate a full head/block swap !!!!

That is a no go on cost alone.

Weber have some great deals on short motors at the minute.....but still more than I'd like to have to spend.
My cheapest motor fix, is as above. Block, pistons/rings and the valley cover and lifter trays, for the basic swap.

Although they do have FS, a 427 rotating assembly, which would require a block for decent money. One of their shop guys is selling it, if its still available. it was in the Sponsors section recently.
Id be concerned that a 427 might reduce HG life though, due to the much larger bore ??
I think a simple 402 is the way to go.
Obviously the LS2 requires a couple of different head studs over the LS6 block...hence may as well buy a new set. Ive had my existing ones for over 3 years now anyway.

Im just raging how bad Ive f**ked the heads during this !!!!

Also shocked to see how badly melted piston no 8 is compared to the rest !!.

Left hand bank will be interesting !!!

And to boot, I dropped my bloody digital camera and cracked the LCD...so now its broke !!!
What a weekend

 

I can't believe a car that looks like this runs 9 seconds & 200 MPH. It has to be one of the greatest sleeper cars of all time.

 

Further questions.

Ive pulled both heads, and fortunately the LHS looks to be in good enough order. Its lost a tiny bit of alu between the valve seats on cyls 1 and 7, but otherwise, ok.
Pistons and bores even look fine from above.

Made a slight error before though, got slightly disorientated.

The severely melted piston was on cylinder 8. The badly stretched/concave intake valve was also on this cylinder.
Ive removed the Morel lifters, and I guess not surprisingly, the lifter cup was fully compressed, and its also free to move, as if the internal spring is broken. I dont have small circlip pliers handy to take it apart.

Yes it was lean etc etc etc. But.

I assume the lifter damage is caused by the stretched valve ? And there is no chance a failed lifter could have had an effect on the intake valve ?
If its as simple as an internal spring, can parts for these lifters be acquired for repair ? Or would a spring from a stock lifter suffice ?

The piston on that cylinder ( 8 ) is totally destroyed.....will be good to see it when its out. Its even loose on the pin.

In the case of this piston.....Im thinking that one of the injectors on that cylinder wasnt firing properly.... and me being stupid, I used PTFE tape when installing the NPT fittings on the rails. I knew at the time it wasnt a great idea, but it was all I had handy lol.
No doubt its clogged up with some particles of PTFE tape

 

My point is that you don't need 26 degrees of timing to run 144 in the 1/4 with a YSi, I made 19 and I probably had too much octane since I was running C16. Since then I ran 144mph with the turbo and 112 gas. And I am still running that block though the head gaskets were changed several years ago.

You need to keep the timing at 20 and no more for 17-19psi with the YSi unless you are are going to run straight 110/112/114//116. I made 680rwhp at 18 psi thru a th400.

I'm boosting 15 psi on pump 93 and no meth right now, feels like high 9's and almost 140 but I'm 8:1 compression.

 

Point taken.

All of the pistons do show signs of heating, pickup etc.....but cylinder 8, the one with the stretched valve is by far the worst. I dont think Ive ever seen a piston so badly damaged in this respect.

Oddly too, it shows signs of hitting the crankshaft. It also fouls the reluctor wheel....although my last set of JE pistons did this too. When the engine was built and on the stand, nothing was hitting the piston.
This piston is also rocking about on the pin, which is very very loose in the piston.







The left hand cylinder bank, 1-7 has definately got away with less damage. Pistons arent great by any means, but not bad either. It also only melted 1 plug on that side.
Gasket surfaces in 1-7 also appear to have been sealing 100%

On 2-8, all 4 plugs were melted. Some cylinders were showing slight signs of gasket leakage, aside from the obvious big one where it blew.. But only very slight.

I'd try and get some better pics, but I dropped the bloody camera and broke the screen when I started taking it apart, and now I cant see what Im photographing properly.

 

u must be my long lost brother

 

Wow, that is some impressive carnage

 

More like "depressive"

 

heres mine!!!!! i want to play in this game

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...=1#post9942973

 

That almost makes me feel better lol

 

anytime, glad to help out

 

Yeah, I think he wins. You got off lucky compared to those.

 

Not really though. End result is the same.

Block scrap, pistons scrap, and head severely damaged ( I hope to F*** the head can be saved )

The only items that survived, are the crank and rods, and I hope the camshaft.

 

the head and block can be welded with ease and made as good as new. It actually looks very minor. Aluminum is so forgiving, just find someone who can TIG aluminum good and i'd say about 20 min or less and you can have it all filled back in ready to be machined off.