I recently purchased a Fuel pump speed controller (part # 16306) for my car which will be controlling a A1000 fuel pump. The engine is an 5.3.

I wired the fuel pump speed controller as directed in the instructions, and have checked the power and ground wires and the switched 12v supply multiple times, all of the wiring is fine. The tach signal is coming from a Autometer tach driver (part # 9117) as suggested, and is wired properly.

The problem is when I roll over the ignition, the pump goes to full power and stays there. the Fuel pump speed controller displays a "full" light. The pump is not cutting to a slower speed after a few seconds like it should, it stays full power.

I have tried rolling the ignition over with no tach signal input, just the override wired up, and the FPSC does the same things, the "full" light is on and the pump runs flat out not changing. However, the overirde portion does appear to work, when the override switch is closed the "override" light comes on, although there is no change in fuel pump speed since it is allready at full power.

I have tried running the engine with tach wire hooked up to the FPSC and the Autometer adapter. The FPSC again stays at "full" and the "tach" light does not come on.

I have also tried turning the potentiometer while the igniton is rolled over, and nothing changes. I checked the potentiometer with a resistance meter, and the pot is working, displaying a max resistance of ~10K omhs (which it should it is labled as a 103 or 10K ohms pot) and varries throughout that range. I left the pot at about 5K omhs. The FPSC is still doing the same thing, stays with the "Full" light on all the time.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

thanks, matt

 

Call Aeromotive and talk to them. Brett in the tech department is really good with these things.

913-647-7300

 

Hi Matt,

I am having a problem with my Aeromotive controller as well. Do you get your issue resolved?

Mine will step down to the lower fuel pump speed after a few seconds but when the engine starts to run the controller shuts the fuel pump off and all 3 LEDs begin to flash in unison.

I've sent an e-mail to the tech guys at Aeromotive but I was hoping you could shed some light on this.

Thanks

Scott

 

I PM'ed scott to see if he had a resolution and figured our conversation would be better served here and maybe we could figure a permanent solution.



I read your post about the 3 lights flashing on the pump controller. Mine is doing the same thing, did you get a resolution? Thanks
Wayne[/QUOTE]

Hi Wayne,

Yes, it turned out to be an interruption in the power to the fuel controller during the starting cycle. I have not yet permanently fixed it but since i have an idependant switch controlling the fuel controller (in addition to the ignition key) i just reach up and shut the fuel off and then right back on and the controller will stay running. I've had my car out on long rides this summer and the fuel pump hasnt stopped even once and best of all i have no more hot fuel issues because the pump is running about 70% slower at cruising speeds.

Good luck.

scott[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the response, My pump stalls while I'm driving at low rpm. If I'm just idling to a stop sign, the engine just dies and fuel pressure is 0, the car starts right back up if you turn the key. I removed the ign/PCM pump wire connection and connected it to constant for a test ride to see if fuel pressure was zero when it dies or because it died and the factory fuel pump wire was turning off. I started the car up, it ran for 5 seconds and then just died I looked at the pump controller and all the lights were flashing and the pump wasn't running. It almost seems like the controller senses low rpm and lowers the voltage too much and the pump stalls. I'm gonna try playing with the voltage screw/pot and see if maybe having a higher minimum voltage makes a difference. I'm also gonna put this PM in the thread for others to see. Thanks

 

Adjusting the min voltage up should get you your desired results. Its likely that the pump is really struggling to keep your base fuel pressure at those low of voltages/duty cycle.