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I have a 1998 F-body, LS3 motor/injector/rails, Racetronix 255LPH kit & hotwire kit, fuel pressure sender connected to fuel rail. They've advised that to get around the WOT fuel pressure drop I'm seeing (50psi at WOT), the best solution is to convert the system to a rail mounted FRP return type.
Can someone please elaborate on what parts are needed to do this and how they should be integrated into my existing setup?
Do they mean return type system? Basicly your fuel rails have two line fittings on them, one feed, and one "return". You would mount the fuel pressure regulator on the return line of the rail, that would be the "best" way, but if your wanting to add fuel pressure regulator to "returnless" rails, (only one line fitting ) this is what I did
The rebuilt CS130D alternator went bad, so I put in my spare DR44G, and two weeks later that one died. Went to a local shop and they advised the DR44G crapped out also. So since the car was stuck there I got raked over the coals a bit on the cost of the remy alternator. I also found that the DS tie rod bellow appeared melted on one of the folds on top, perhaps one of the alternators overheated?
I had the old CS130D repaired, and will have the DR44G completely rebuilt this month. I haven't tested the voltage/FP at WOT since the latest alternator was installed, but I wonder if that alternator problem could have been the cause of the pressure drop.
Not sure what other mods might cause the symptoms. I have the OEM stereo and electronics. Off the top of my head, the only things electrical which are not OEM are the battery/alternator wiring, fuel pump wiring, and passenger window motor direct wiring.
09-29-2015, 12:52 PM
Convert to a rail mounted FRP 
