stock rail with return line pictures
Please note that you will have to use hardware dependent upon the brand of hose and fittings that you have and the ports on your FPR. Note also that the inlet ports on the Racetronix FPR are 8 ORB. Yours might to 6 or 8 or NOT. ORB - (dependent upon your FPR) - means there is an O ring on the fitting to seal where it inserts into the FPR.
I made a plate that fastens just under the brake lines near the master cylinder. I have a line lock so lines on your car might look different. With this plate no need to drill any holes to attach the plate. Just use what's already there. I also have a strut tower brace so it holds the front part of the plate securely under the STB. The FPR attaches to the plate. The FPR pressure gauge in this location is easy to see and easy to adjust and allows for easy connections for the inlet and outlet return line hose from the rails.
You will need one or two 90 degree 8 ORB fittings to screw into the inlet port of the FPR and outlet port of the FPR along with a 90 degree fitting that attaches to the 90 degree fitting on the bottom port of the FPR. See pic in link. My PTFE hose doesn't bend easily and will kink and compromise the fuel flow so an extra 90 will eliminate a sharp 90 degree hose bend.
The link for the 90 doesn't work. Enter this part number in the 'Search' field on Racetronix site to see what it looks like. Your hardware might be different.
ADF-499268
https://racetronix.com/products/
Note you will have to notch the plate so the bottom 90 ORB fitting can be pointed backward. Your straight female hose end fitting will connect to the second 90 fitting where it will route behind the master cylinder in a nice arc and out of sight.
The link for the second 90 doesn't work. Enter this part number in the 'Search' field on Racetronix site to see what it looks like. Your hardware might be different.
ADF-498103FF
https://racetronix.com/products/
Note:
Where your return hose attaches to the stock rails will determine if you need a straight ORB fitting or a 90 degree ORB fitting on the inlet port of the FPR. I have fuel rails so my return line attaches to the rear of the fuel rail on the passenger side and loops nicely along the firewall in a nice arc and connects directly to the 90 degree ORB fitting in the inlet port of the FPR (no pressure points - my hose if PTFE and extremely stiff ).
If you are using the stock rail then you will probably connect from the rail back to the FPR on the mounting plate. A 90 fitting might help here - but depends on how much your hose will bend into a 180 loop back to the FPR. Your inlet fitting will point forward.
I tapped into the stock feed line from the Racetronix FPR so in the pic my 90 fitting on bottom of the FPR points forward and attaches with a short hose directly into the 3/8 inch feed line. Your outlet fitting will point backward.
Your 6 AN straight hose end fitting will connect to the second 90 degree fitting. This will allow you to route the return line from bottom of the FPR under the master cylinder fill tank and back behind the master cylinder down and under the steering wheel shaft along the firewall and down between the two heat shields. There is a one inch gap between the two heat shields. Your hose will fit between the gap. The sides of both heat shields can easily be bent to keep the AN hose outer covering from rubbing and chafing. Drill a hole in the front heat shield and then Zip tie the hose in place. You can wrap the hose with heat shield tape as well as a precaution. Tape it before you route it - a lot easier.
I have American Racing headers, so there is enough clearance to loop the return hose backward and up to the top of my 4l60e transmission above the shift linkage (don't know about a manual transmission and clearance). The return hose continues backward along the frame along the outer side of the BMR torque arm (don't know about a stock torque arm clearance). Route it along the stock feed line all the way back to the 5/16 inch plastic line that feeds directly into the fuel tank. It's end will have a female 5/16 inch quick connect fitting. It is located near the bulkhead where the wire loom from the tank attaches to the bulkhead.
At the fuel fuel filter location you will remove the return hard line from the T block (see pic) and plug the hole with a closed fitting. Remove the 5/16 " return hard line and disconnect it from the female 5/16 nylon quick connect referred to above.
At the end of your 6 AN return line you will need a 3/8 hose end that reduces to a 5/16 inch male quick connect as shown in the pic below . This fitting will insert directly into the 5/16 female quick connect on the plastic 5/16 inch line that feeds to the fuel tank.
You will get what ever is similar dependent upon your brand of hose and hardware. Enter this part number in the 'Search' field on Racetronix site to see what the hose end male quick connect fitting looks like if link doesn't work.
FIT-P6QDM56
https://www.racetronix.biz/product.asp?ic=fit-p6qdm56
Or option two - you can run your return line all the way up to the tank and attach it to the hard return line inlet at the fuel pump module. If so you will need a 6 AN hose end quick connect female fitting that reduces down to a 5/16 inch hard line. Again - note this fitting is for PTFE 6 AN hose. Yours might be different.
Enter this part number in the 'Search' field on Racetronix site to see what it looks like if link doesn't work.
FIT-P6QDF56
https://www.racetronix.biz/product.asp?ic=fit-p6qdf56
However if you choose this option you will have to drop the tank to remove the existing stock fuel return line and replace with your line. I chose option one because I already have a trap door cut above the tank.
I suppose now we will get feedback that there are much easier ways and cheaper. If so, hopefully they will respond with pics to help you out. BTW - with my rails there isn't any provision to attach the FPR directly to the fuel rail in the front like the stock rails because both feed and return inlet and outlet are on the backside near the firewall. I will post pics again when I have it all plumbed back together again. I had to pull the manifold because of a wiring issue to injectors. When I reinstall will post pics then.
My rant. What I have found with supposedly plug and play kits is that there are no directions and you always need to purchase additional hardware or make your own.
Last edited by dlandsvZ28; Oct 14, 2018 at 08:49 PM. Reason: Add links








