Replacing the hard plastic line off the fuel pump assembly
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Replacing the hard plastic line off the fuel pump assembly I have a 1986 Chevrolet C20.
It is swapped onto a 2000 Chevrolet 2500 frame. I will be running a 6.0 LQ9 engine.
I am running the stock 2500 gas tank. The fuel pump assembly is shot - I was warned before I purchased the frame.
It looks like water got into the tank. The float is rusted in place and even light tapping with a dead blow hammer does nothing to free it.
I have a WIX Corvette filter, the internally pressure regulated one that everyone says to run, with -6 AN clip on fittings. I have no name, popular auction website fuel rails with -6 to ORB fittings.
I have a Walbro 255 laying around from my old race car days. I have 20 feet of 3/8 stainless steel tubing and a 37 degree flare tool. Obviously I need some pieces of flex between the tank and frame, and again between the hard line and the fuel rail, and between the two fuel rails.
I do not want to run recirculated if I don't have to.
My fuel pump assembly looks just like the Firebird one in the "How to swap Walbro" write up that is a sticky on this thread so that part looks easy.
My issue is that I don't have the plastic lines and clips and whatnot that allow me to connect the pump. I mentioned the old race car days and we would just cut the barb fitting off and weld or braze AN fittings onto the fuel pump assembly.
Is there a solution here for that? Or what is everyone else doing?
Why is this mess a spring loaded assembly? Was that to make it a "one size fits all" fuel pump assembly?
It is swapped onto a 2000 Chevrolet 2500 frame. I will be running a 6.0 LQ9 engine.
I am running the stock 2500 gas tank. The fuel pump assembly is shot - I was warned before I purchased the frame.
It looks like water got into the tank. The float is rusted in place and even light tapping with a dead blow hammer does nothing to free it.
I have a WIX Corvette filter, the internally pressure regulated one that everyone says to run, with -6 AN clip on fittings. I have no name, popular auction website fuel rails with -6 to ORB fittings.
I have a Walbro 255 laying around from my old race car days. I have 20 feet of 3/8 stainless steel tubing and a 37 degree flare tool. Obviously I need some pieces of flex between the tank and frame, and again between the hard line and the fuel rail, and between the two fuel rails.
I do not want to run recirculated if I don't have to.
My fuel pump assembly looks just like the Firebird one in the "How to swap Walbro" write up that is a sticky on this thread so that part looks easy.
My issue is that I don't have the plastic lines and clips and whatnot that allow me to connect the pump. I mentioned the old race car days and we would just cut the barb fitting off and weld or braze AN fittings onto the fuel pump assembly.
Is there a solution here for that? Or what is everyone else doing?
Why is this mess a spring loaded assembly? Was that to make it a "one size fits all" fuel pump assembly?
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
I did some more reading.
https://www.inlinetube.com/products/nfr0011
This looks like a good kit that would suit my needs. I can run the 3/8 tubing along the frame rails and figure out a piece of flex from the hard line to the fuel rails. I'm not sure where to route the vapor emissions line to though. A 1986 didn't have that...
I'm still welding cab mounts. My cab is about 1/4 shifted, passenger side heavy so if anyone has any comments I've got lots of time before I actually order.
https://www.inlinetube.com/products/nfr0011
This looks like a good kit that would suit my needs. I can run the 3/8 tubing along the frame rails and figure out a piece of flex from the hard line to the fuel rails. I'm not sure where to route the vapor emissions line to though. A 1986 didn't have that...
I'm still welding cab mounts. My cab is about 1/4 shifted, passenger side heavy so if anyone has any comments I've got lots of time before I actually order.
