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Heat and Fuel Pressure

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Old Sep 8, 2005 | 01:08 PM
  #1  
Kaneman's Avatar
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Default Heat and Fuel Pressure

I am have some fuel pressure anomolies. When the car is cold the fuel pressure reads 62psi-64psi. As the car is warming up it slowely drops to 60psi then when it is hot it will fluctuate between 55psi-59psi. I am trying to determine if heat is causing this issue or if it is a bad regulator. I am having a real hard time getting my LTFT's stable.

Here is my current fuel setup.

Dual intake Walbros attached but sperarated by a pieces of the old bucket so the pumps are not touching. The Walbros feeding separately to a -6 T with -8 out on the T line to the rails. I have an Aeromotive A1000 regulator P/N 13101. Then a -6 return back to the tank. My line is behind as much heat sheilding as possible but in some areas it may be 3in-6in away from the exhaust. My regulator is mounted on the shock tower hanging over the drivers side exhuast the regualtor does get pretty hot not sure if that is the cause or not.

Any assistance would be appreciated,

Thanks,

Kane
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Old Sep 8, 2005 | 08:06 PM
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Hey Kane,

What are you using to measure fuel pressure? A lot of the electronic FP gauges start getting a bit in accurate as the sending units heat up.

Matt
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Old Sep 8, 2005 | 10:42 PM
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I do have an electric autometer gauge. The line going to the sending unit is pretty hot but the sending unit itself is not. Maybe it is just the guage. I was able to dial in my fuel trims a little better today so I may be ok.

Kane
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Old Sep 9, 2005 | 06:25 AM
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Put a regular gauge on the regulator using a tee to compare and check for gauge drift between the two. Do both pumps run all the time?
Mike
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Old Sep 9, 2005 | 12:24 PM
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Yes both pumps run at the same time. Here is what we did.

http://members.***.net/kane-forum/DualWalbro

Kane
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Old Sep 9, 2005 | 04:44 PM
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First thng I would do is disconnect one pump and see if pressure gets stable that return may not be enough for two pumps at idle that is quite a but of fuel to bypass and they may be getting hot. We run lots of double pumper setups on Turbo Buicks but ususlly have to stage thee pumps using a hobbs switch that turns on on after a few pounds of boost. The check valve in the pump takes care of backflow problems. I had to go to a -8 return to allow the system to be stable with both pumps on. If you take power off of one and the pressure drops the return system is overrun.
Mike
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