Aeromotive pump controller
Aeromotive pump controller Does anyone use an Aeromotive pump controller? I'm looking for ideas for wiring it up. I kind of thought that in addition to it's other features, it would take the place of a fuel pump relay. After looking at the schematic, I'm not sure whether I need a relay with this or not. Is the tach signal from the pcm sufficient or do I need something to convert the signal to something the controller can use?
this one?
http://www.aeromotiveinc.com/ldetail.php?prod=31&th=1
or this one?
http://www.aeromotiveinc.com/ldetail.php?prod=32&th=1
im using the 2nd one..
http://www.aeromotiveinc.com/ldetail.php?prod=31&th=1
or this one?
http://www.aeromotiveinc.com/ldetail.php?prod=32&th=1
im using the 2nd one..
I would think that it would still be a good idea to have the relay but mount it ahead of the controller. That controller from my understanding is a voltage controller that lowers the voltage(thus lowering the pump pressure) under a light load/low RPM operation(street use) It's designed to lower pump duty under light load and keep heat out of the pump by lowering the voltage and output from the pump. The relay would still be controlling the on/off voltage going to the controller but the controller would still control the pump operation.
The write up in the Summit catalog says that the controller replaces the relays normally used. I tend to think you are right about still needing a relay. I'll give Aeromotive a call this week just to be sure.
Please let us know what you find out. I am putting together a FI fuel system w/ Magnafuel's 1500hp pump and thought about getting one of these but also not sure exactly how it works or how it will help me. It would be nice to have a variable pressure system that adjusts automatically by rpms.
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Originally Posted by SSblack98
Please let us know what you find out. I am putting together a FI fuel system w/ Magnafuel's 1500hp pump and thought about getting one of these but also not sure exactly how it works or how it will help me. It would be nice to have a variable pressure system that adjusts automatically by rpms.
#1. lowers the voltage to the pump(s)s at idle and when the unit reaches a certain rpm...will apply full voltage to the pump(s)
#2. is boost sensitive...no boost == no power pumps. u can adjust when and how much voltage is applied during boost psi. there are 5 stages of boost setting. max of 15psi / 5 stages = 3psi per stage...so at 3psi you have the pump(s) turn on and apply 2-3volts...6psi 6volts...9psi..10volts etc...u control the voltage % for each stage.
if you only have 1 pump...#2 is out the door. but if you need additional flow during boost then #2 is good.
each has its ups/downs...etc
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Verdad Gallardo I didn't get a chance to call Aeromotive today, I was just too busy. I did send an email to their tech department tonight. Hopefully I'll get a good answer that way. In print, it seems to say that you don't need the realy. In the included wiring diagram, it does show a relay, the stock FP relay. I just want to be clear on all of this.
I have another question. The controller requires a tach input. Is the stock signal to be used as is or would it require some sort of device in between that would change the signal input into the controller?
I have another question. The controller requires a tach input. Is the stock signal to be used as is or would it require some sort of device in between that would change the signal input into the controller?
They finally got back to me. It looks like you don't need a relay, but you do need something to translate the tach signal.
Here is what they said:
The 16302 Fuel Pump Speed Controller requires a 12V signal at the PWR terminal, that is activated by either a Key-On condition, a signal from the stock PCM to run the fuel pump, or a toggle switch. The BAT terminal is not switched normally, rather it is not all the time.
You can use the stock, fuel pump run relay in the harness to supply the signal to PWR.
You will need a standard, 12V square wave to activate the RPM based control. I believe with the LS1 the factory tach is a current trigger rather than a voltage trigger. I would consult with MSD for a universal tach adapter for the multi-coil ignitions found on those engines.
Mount the unit in a location where water cannot be splashed onto the face, where it would short between the terminal spades. It would be nice if there was some air space around the unit to prevent it from overheating aggressively.
Hope this answers your questions, let me know if you need further assistance and thanks for choosing Aeromotive!
Here is what they said:
The 16302 Fuel Pump Speed Controller requires a 12V signal at the PWR terminal, that is activated by either a Key-On condition, a signal from the stock PCM to run the fuel pump, or a toggle switch. The BAT terminal is not switched normally, rather it is not all the time.
You can use the stock, fuel pump run relay in the harness to supply the signal to PWR.
You will need a standard, 12V square wave to activate the RPM based control. I believe with the LS1 the factory tach is a current trigger rather than a voltage trigger. I would consult with MSD for a universal tach adapter for the multi-coil ignitions found on those engines.
Mount the unit in a location where water cannot be splashed onto the face, where it would short between the terminal spades. It would be nice if there was some air space around the unit to prevent it from overheating aggressively.
Hope this answers your questions, let me know if you need further assistance and thanks for choosing Aeromotive!
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: Melbourne, Australia
Hi Guys
I know this is an old thread , But I want to hook up one of these controllers to my Turbo LS1 with 2x always on 044 Bosch pumps for the street and long hyway trips .
Does anyone know which msd tacho box works with our ls1 ignition systems as stated in the last post ?
Or can I use the tacho signal from the PCM?
I wanted to use the mSD 8913 , But I read somewhere they don't work on LS1s ?
Any help would be appreciated !!
I know this is an old thread , But I want to hook up one of these controllers to my Turbo LS1 with 2x always on 044 Bosch pumps for the street and long hyway trips .
Does anyone know which msd tacho box works with our ls1 ignition systems as stated in the last post ?
Or can I use the tacho signal from the PCM?
I wanted to use the mSD 8913 , But I read somewhere they don't work on LS1s ?
Any help would be appreciated !!
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
Ive been running a pair of 044's for well over a year now. Never had any issues with them. Longest single drive would be about 400 miles in 6-7 hours, almost continuous.
I do have the Aero controller, and did use it for a while ( carry on from when I had a A1000 )
But. The spade style terminals used, arent that great. Mine musnt have been making a good connection, and with it dropping the voltage, this causes higher current to flow, which ended up melting the terminals. I was lucky to catch it in time, before a possible fire.
It was then I just stuck the 044's flat out all the time. SO far Ive maybe done about 10-12,000 miles like this.
I do have the Aero controller, and did use it for a while ( carry on from when I had a A1000 )
But. The spade style terminals used, arent that great. Mine musnt have been making a good connection, and with it dropping the voltage, this causes higher current to flow, which ended up melting the terminals. I was lucky to catch it in time, before a possible fire.
It was then I just stuck the 044's flat out all the time. SO far Ive maybe done about 10-12,000 miles like this.
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: Melbourne, Australia
How did you have it wirred in ?
Did you use a tach adapter for the RPM wire?
Did you use a tach adapter for the RPM wire?
Ive been running a pair of 044's for well over a year now. Never had any issues with them. Longest single drive would be about 400 miles in 6-7 hours, almost continuous.
I do have the Aero controller, and did use it for a while ( carry on from when I had a A1000 )
But. The spade style terminals used, arent that great. Mine musnt have been making a good connection, and with it dropping the voltage, this causes higher current to flow, which ended up melting the terminals. I was lucky to catch it in time, before a possible fire.
It was then I just stuck the 044's flat out all the time. SO far Ive maybe done about 10-12,000 miles like this.
I do have the Aero controller, and did use it for a while ( carry on from when I had a A1000 )
But. The spade style terminals used, arent that great. Mine musnt have been making a good connection, and with it dropping the voltage, this causes higher current to flow, which ended up melting the terminals. I was lucky to catch it in time, before a possible fire.
It was then I just stuck the 044's flat out all the time. SO far Ive maybe done about 10-12,000 miles like this.
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
Im not using the factory ecu, so I didnt need any adaptors. I just fed it a normal rpm signal from my ecu..
You could hook it up to a boost pressure switch, so that it only went full power on boost.
You could hook it up to a boost pressure switch, so that it only went full power on boost.
Your telling me the pump controller almost started a fire ? Wow, if that is so I think Aeromotive needs to solve that problem. How did you get the controller to work for so long with no problems when you had the A1000 ? Wondering if the controller was heating up because 044 pumps.
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
Not the controller.
Simply the spade terminal that powers the pump. IMO its inadequate for the current passing through it. Whether it is a dodgy spade, I dont know. But I had to squeeze it several times to try and ensure it was making good contact.
I had the same problem with the A1000. The terminal did tend to get very hot, although it never melted with the A1000.
Simply the spade terminal that powers the pump. IMO its inadequate for the current passing through it. Whether it is a dodgy spade, I dont know. But I had to squeeze it several times to try and ensure it was making good contact.
I had the same problem with the A1000. The terminal did tend to get very hot, although it never melted with the A1000.
