pinion nut question. problem maybe?
pinion nut question. problem maybe? ok i replaced all the bearings in a 10 bolt i have. Before i removed the pinion nut i marked it with a paint dot and took note of how many threads stuck out(which was 2 threads), and also took note of how freely it spun before i took everything apart.
i put the new bearings in and assembled the pinion back in the rear. i then tightened the pinion nut to where it was originally. i then tried spinning the pinion and it wouldnt spin at all. it was really tight. so i loosened the nut until it spun freely.(now i have about 1 thread sticking out)
did i f**k something up or is that normal after putting in new bearings?
i put the new bearings in and assembled the pinion back in the rear. i then tightened the pinion nut to where it was originally. i then tried spinning the pinion and it wouldnt spin at all. it was really tight. so i loosened the nut until it spun freely.(now i have about 1 thread sticking out)
did i f**k something up or is that normal after putting in new bearings?
When u Tighten that nut down it preload the bearings for the pinion. The correct way to do is measure how much force it take to turn it. I believe its 20inch pounds. you cants just tighten it down.
Did you use a new crush sleeve? When you change the pinion bearings you have all new tolerances now so the marks you made are for nothing. You have to set up the pinion all over again. To do this correctly you need a new crush sleeve and you have to set up the pinion. Now there are two ways of doing this. You can do it the way the book tells you with the dial gauge and a magnetic base to hold it and all that stuff or you can do it the old school way that nobody approves of but works too. My buddy that works at a chevy dealer has been doing it this way for over 20 years and he did it to a friend of mines low 9 sec nova.
Put everything together like you had it but with a new crush sleeve. (I hope you have an impact gun handy to crush the crush sleeve) Next is to tighten it down until there is no more play in it and keep tightening down until you can grab the yoke and spin it as hard as you can and when you let go it only spins a half a turn more on its own. Now its set.
Put everything together like you had it but with a new crush sleeve. (I hope you have an impact gun handy to crush the crush sleeve) Next is to tighten it down until there is no more play in it and keep tightening down until you can grab the yoke and spin it as hard as you can and when you let go it only spins a half a turn more on its own. Now its set.
well i was following the sticky at the top of the page about gear swaps that kaliente wrote. In the write up it said just mark the pinion nut and that i could re-use the old crush sleeve if i set everything back up the way it was.
Yeah but that is with the old bearings most likely. The only way to know for sure is to pull it all apart and get the right preload on the pinion bearings. With everything still together you won't be able to know the preload.
^^ Exactly. The pinion nut marking method is only for re-using the same bearings. You would do this when the rear was still functioning fine, but the pinion seal was leaking. To set up the new bearings, you can re-use the old crush sleeve if it's been used only once or twice before. You need to tighten the pinion nut until there-s 20-25 inch-pounds of rotational torque on the nut. The differential needs to be out for this.
^^ Exactly. The pinion nut marking method is only for re-using the same bearings. You would do this when the rear was still functioning fine, but the pinion seal was leaking. To set up the new bearings, you can re-use the old crush sleeve if it's been used only once or twice before. You need to tighten the pinion nut until there-s 20-25 inch-pounds of rotational torque on the nut. The differential needs to be out for this.
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And the pinion preload setting in inch pounds has nothing at all to do with the torque on the nut. The nut might be torqued to 250 ft lbs, yet still might take 15 inch pounds to turn the pinion.
For example, I just did the pinion bearings on a 14 bolt, it took 400+ foot pounds of torque on the pinion nut to crush the crush collar, then I took the six foot breaker bar off the nut and put the inch pound torque wrench on and it takes 15 inch pounds to turn the pinion.
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Brett Foote Thats only with a dial type inch pound torque wrench. You cannot do it with a click type wrench.
And the pinion preload setting in inch pounds has nothing at all to do with the torque on the nut. The nut might be torqued to 250 ft lbs, yet still might take 15 inch pounds to turn the pinion.
For example, I just did the pinion bearings on a 14 bolt, it took 400+ foot pounds of torque on the pinion nut to crush the crush collar, then I took the six foot breaker bar off the nut and put the inch pound torque wrench on and it takes 15 inch pounds to turn the pinion.
And the pinion preload setting in inch pounds has nothing at all to do with the torque on the nut. The nut might be torqued to 250 ft lbs, yet still might take 15 inch pounds to turn the pinion.
For example, I just did the pinion bearings on a 14 bolt, it took 400+ foot pounds of torque on the pinion nut to crush the crush collar, then I took the six foot breaker bar off the nut and put the inch pound torque wrench on and it takes 15 inch pounds to turn the pinion.
ahhhh, ok ok ok. i get it now. so basically your measuring the resistance to spin the pinion. not actually measuring the torque on the bolt. i understand now!
