TA diff cover?
#1
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This might be a REALLY stupid question. but what all is involved in the install of a TA rear girdle? i mean with the stud kit(i was thinking about getting the gear package from thunderracing). is this a major modification, or simple bolt on cover?
Thanks
btw-also should i just buy the "complete" gear swap kit from thunder, or is it worth it to go ahead and get the "deluxe kit"????
Thanks again!
Tim
Thanks
btw-also should i just buy the "complete" gear swap kit from thunder, or is it worth it to go ahead and get the "deluxe kit"????
Thanks again!
Tim
#2
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Changing the rear end cover is not really that hard. I had to remove some brackets that held the brake lines in place. When I put the new cover on, the bolts were not long enough to hold these brackets. So I used some large hose clamps to hold the bracket on the axle. Just make sure to get a new gasket. Another word of advice, get a hand pump. It makes filling the differential a hell of a lot easier than trying to fill it with a funnel.
There isn't really a lot of room to pour. Hope this helps.
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It is pretty easy to do. You just take the 4 bolts out that hold the carrier bearing caps on (2 bolts for each cap) and put the studs in place of them. The studs have an allen machined into the end of them so you can torque them to the proper spec.
I was able to use the bolts that came with it to hold the brake line brackets on. I also used red high temp RTV silicone instead of a gasket. It hasn't leaked and I've heard of a lot of gaskets leaking. I had to loosen the rear sway bar to torque the cover bolts on, but I think it was because I had the car on a drive-on lift and the rear suspension was loaded during the install.
If you don't have a hand pump (I don't), you can use a gear oil bottle that has the squeeze tip on it to fill it up. It was tough, but I managed to fill it. A funnel was impossible, but again, the suspension was loaded.
I was able to use the bolts that came with it to hold the brake line brackets on. I also used red high temp RTV silicone instead of a gasket. It hasn't leaked and I've heard of a lot of gaskets leaking. I had to loosen the rear sway bar to torque the cover bolts on, but I think it was because I had the car on a drive-on lift and the rear suspension was loaded during the install.
If you don't have a hand pump (I don't), you can use a gear oil bottle that has the squeeze tip on it to fill it up. It was tough, but I managed to fill it. A funnel was impossible, but again, the suspension was loaded.
#5
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A few more quick tips. Use a standard gear lube squeeze bottle with a section of clear hose about 4" long and you can fill the diff easily. Also, DO NOT forget to add GM limited slip additive in the diff. I usually pour about 1/2 of the gear lube into the diff and then pour the entire bottle of GM additive into the larger bottle. This makes it alot easier to get the GM additive into the diff. The GM additive comes in a small bottle ( 4 ounces I belive ) and it is very difficult to pour into the rear.
Do not forget to remove the drain plug from the T/A cover and seal it. Mine came installed, but not sealed or tight. My cover also came with longer bolts and spacers for the e-brake cable brackets. Make sure you back the preload bolts all of the way out before you install the cover, and then tighten them as the directions tell you to. I had a small leak around each of the adjusters, so I just sealed the lock nut with liquid teflon and that stopped the leak.
Do not forget to remove the drain plug from the T/A cover and seal it. Mine came installed, but not sealed or tight. My cover also came with longer bolts and spacers for the e-brake cable brackets. Make sure you back the preload bolts all of the way out before you install the cover, and then tighten them as the directions tell you to. I had a small leak around each of the adjusters, so I just sealed the lock nut with liquid teflon and that stopped the leak.