breaking in rear
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: jackson heights , new york
breaking in rear im having my diff purged. when they put the fluids back with the additives, whats the proper way of breaking it in. also im getting a dyno tune, should i do the tune first or fluids first depending if there a break in period for the fluids. thanks Ralph
Not to hijack the OP, but I'm in the same boat. Just getting ready to start driving on my new Midwest FAB9 with Detroit Locker.
Do I need to run a special "break-in" fluid? If so, for how many miles? Once that's done is it OK to run synthetic with the locker?
Thanks.
Do I need to run a special "break-in" fluid? If so, for how many miles? Once that's done is it OK to run synthetic with the locker?
Thanks.
we don't suggest the use of any synthetic fluids for the first 500 miles. as far as a new gear break-in, you need to do 5 heat cycles with no abuse. this is light street driving, don't go over 55mph, don't go down the highway for 20 miles at 65mph. just drive it like a grandma on sunday . no clutch dumps, burnouts, full throttle accel, etc. about 15 minutes at a time, then let it cool off for no less than 1 hour between cycles. a heat cycle is from cool to full operating temp, them back to cool. this needs to be done 5 times.
the purpose of this is to surface temper the gears. all gears are heat treated, but it is essential for the life of the gear(and incidentally noise level) to break-in the gear properly and this process of bringing the gears up to temp slowly and letting them cool slowly is what does the job. Richmond Gear told me that 95% of all warranty claims they see are from people either not doing the break-in or improper method.
the purpose of this is to surface temper the gears. all gears are heat treated, but it is essential for the life of the gear(and incidentally noise level) to break-in the gear properly and this process of bringing the gears up to temp slowly and letting them cool slowly is what does the job. Richmond Gear told me that 95% of all warranty claims they see are from people either not doing the break-in or improper method.
Define "having my diff purged." I'm assuming you are talking about a new ring and pinion and bearings since you are asking about break-in, but it isn't clear what you mean.
synthetic can be used after break-in yes, but some diff unit manufacturers do not recommend using synthetic oils. as far as viscosity, for the break-in just any GL-5 rated or better 80/90 is fine. after the 500 mile if you do alot of highway driving or roadcourse use maybe a 85-140 type would be good. drag only cars could get away with a thinner racing type lube. any of our clutch type posi units will require a additive and we recommend the Ford OEM Friction Modifier. the Wavetrac, Truetrac, Detroit Locker, and spools do not require additives.
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: jackson heights , new york
synthetic can be used after break-in yes, but some diff unit manufacturers do not recommend using synthetic oils. as far as viscosity, for the break-in just any GL-5 rated or better 80/90 is fine. after the 500 mile if you do alot of highway driving or roadcourse use maybe a 85-140 type would be good. drag only cars could get away with a thinner racing type lube. any of our clutch type posi units will require a additive and we recommend the Ford OEM Friction Modifier. the Wavetrac, Truetrac, Detroit Locker, and spools do not require additives.
