thinking about switching...
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TECH Addict
Joined: Mar 2009
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From: Texas/Afghanistan
thinking about switching... from dd to full race app. talking about spooled 9", h/c/i/n2o, built t56, slicks, gutted and trailered. i've made a few passes with just h/c and not much else, wasn't very pleased with the results. but it gave me the bug, I WANNA GO FASTER 
so if i pull the trigger on this i want to do a moser 9, 35 spline spool, PST drive shaft...ya know the norm. first question, would a 3" steel ds be enough for my application? no more than about 550 rwhp on the gas?
second question, what gears would suit me? i was thinking 4.30's. driveability is not an issue here. i need the gear that is going to put me across the line at the top of the power band. redline will be 6800-ish.
third question, i've heard that there are some slight issues with 9's and t/a position. how big of a problem is this? also read somewhere that the 9 inch housing causes the *** to sit slightly higher? i was planning on using stock springs for a while to save a little on budget. but not if my car is gonna have its *** stuck up in the air.
fourth question, powder coat or paint it myself? the first paint job is not what worries me, i'm quite the rattle can artist. but more importantly how long will paint last under hard racing? is the powder coat worth the extra 200 bux?
so if i pull the trigger on this i want to do a moser 9, 35 spline spool, PST drive shaft...ya know the norm. first question, would a 3" steel ds be enough for my application? no more than about 550 rwhp on the gas?
second question, what gears would suit me? i was thinking 4.30's. driveability is not an issue here. i need the gear that is going to put me across the line at the top of the power band. redline will be 6800-ish.
third question, i've heard that there are some slight issues with 9's and t/a position. how big of a problem is this? also read somewhere that the 9 inch housing causes the *** to sit slightly higher? i was planning on using stock springs for a while to save a little on budget. but not if my car is gonna have its *** stuck up in the air.
fourth question, powder coat or paint it myself? the first paint job is not what worries me, i'm quite the rattle can artist. but more importantly how long will paint last under hard racing? is the powder coat worth the extra 200 bux?
I have all your answers and the correct parts for you. One of the employees cars is really close combo to what you are building and we have tested several combinations in that car.
First off if you are gonna do the entire rearend/suspension then you need to explore all the options out there so you aren't kicking yourself for getting lesser parts for the same cost.
The PST steel shaft will be fine for you, but you need a better slip yoke than what comes with it normally or even "upgraded".
As far as your gear ratio, it will depend on what size tire you run, but the biggest thing is where you want the performance. the 4.30 would be a good gear for n/a and a 26" tire.
The torque arm position on a standard stamped 9" rearend will have clearance issues with the driveshaft tunnel, even at stock ride height. Most aftermarket rearends will raise the back of the car a bit due to increased axle tube size, but some are worse than others. The Moser design is known to raise the back of the car sometimes up to 1/2-3/4 inch depending on adjustments. We sell rearends daily to customers using stock springs and no complaints of ride height increases.
as far as powdercoat or paint goes... there is nothing better than powdercoating in a spray process, but it can get costly. We offer powdercoating on all of our manufactured components(fabricated housing, chromemoly torque arm, crossmember, and pivot link) for 125.00 as an option. if you want a custom paint color then it would be best just to buy it bare and do it yourself, but if nothing fancy is in order then the powdercoating that we offer with our package is a pretty much unbeatable deal.
Feel free to call us for the lowdown on any rearend for your f-body car. We are direct dealers for Strange and Moser and of course manufacture the ever popular MWC fabricated 9 inch rearend package. We have alot of experience in the rearend, suspension, and chassis area of these cars as we own and race them ourselves. We will discuss your goals and budget and get you the right parts the first time and at unbeatable deals.
First off if you are gonna do the entire rearend/suspension then you need to explore all the options out there so you aren't kicking yourself for getting lesser parts for the same cost.
The PST steel shaft will be fine for you, but you need a better slip yoke than what comes with it normally or even "upgraded".
As far as your gear ratio, it will depend on what size tire you run, but the biggest thing is where you want the performance. the 4.30 would be a good gear for n/a and a 26" tire.
The torque arm position on a standard stamped 9" rearend will have clearance issues with the driveshaft tunnel, even at stock ride height. Most aftermarket rearends will raise the back of the car a bit due to increased axle tube size, but some are worse than others. The Moser design is known to raise the back of the car sometimes up to 1/2-3/4 inch depending on adjustments. We sell rearends daily to customers using stock springs and no complaints of ride height increases.
as far as powdercoat or paint goes... there is nothing better than powdercoating in a spray process, but it can get costly. We offer powdercoating on all of our manufactured components(fabricated housing, chromemoly torque arm, crossmember, and pivot link) for 125.00 as an option. if you want a custom paint color then it would be best just to buy it bare and do it yourself, but if nothing fancy is in order then the powdercoating that we offer with our package is a pretty much unbeatable deal.
Feel free to call us for the lowdown on any rearend for your f-body car. We are direct dealers for Strange and Moser and of course manufacture the ever popular MWC fabricated 9 inch rearend package. We have alot of experience in the rearend, suspension, and chassis area of these cars as we own and race them ourselves. We will discuss your goals and budget and get you the right parts the first time and at unbeatable deals.
Thread Starter
TECH Addict
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,099
Likes: 3
From: Texas/Afghanistan
I have all your answers and the correct parts for you. One of the employees cars is really close combo to what you are building and we have tested several combinations in that car.
First off if you are gonna do the entire rearend/suspension then you need to explore all the options out there so you aren't kicking yourself for getting lesser parts for the same cost.
The PST steel shaft will be fine for you, but you need a better slip yoke than what comes with it normally or even "upgraded".
As far as your gear ratio, it will depend on what size tire you run, but the biggest thing is where you want the performance. the 4.30 would be a good gear for n/a and a 26" tire.
The torque arm position on a standard stamped 9" rearend will have clearance issues with the driveshaft tunnel, even at stock ride height. Most aftermarket rearends will raise the back of the car a bit due to increased axle tube size, but some are worse than others. The Moser design is known to raise the back of the car sometimes up to 1/2-3/4 inch depending on adjustments. We sell rearends daily to customers using stock springs and no complaints of ride height increases.
as far as powdercoat or paint goes... there is nothing better than powdercoating in a spray process, but it can get costly. We offer powdercoating on all of our manufactured components(fabricated housing, chromemoly torque arm, crossmember, and pivot link) for 125.00 as an option. if you want a custom paint color then it would be best just to buy it bare and do it yourself, but if nothing fancy is in order then the powdercoating that we offer with our package is a pretty much unbeatable deal.
Feel free to call us for the lowdown on any rearend for your f-body car. We are direct dealers for Strange and Moser and of course manufacture the ever popular MWC fabricated 9 inch rearend package. We have alot of experience in the rearend, suspension, and chassis area of these cars as we own and race them ourselves. We will discuss your goals and budget and get you the right parts the first time and at unbeatable deals.
First off if you are gonna do the entire rearend/suspension then you need to explore all the options out there so you aren't kicking yourself for getting lesser parts for the same cost.
The PST steel shaft will be fine for you, but you need a better slip yoke than what comes with it normally or even "upgraded".
As far as your gear ratio, it will depend on what size tire you run, but the biggest thing is where you want the performance. the 4.30 would be a good gear for n/a and a 26" tire.
The torque arm position on a standard stamped 9" rearend will have clearance issues with the driveshaft tunnel, even at stock ride height. Most aftermarket rearends will raise the back of the car a bit due to increased axle tube size, but some are worse than others. The Moser design is known to raise the back of the car sometimes up to 1/2-3/4 inch depending on adjustments. We sell rearends daily to customers using stock springs and no complaints of ride height increases.
as far as powdercoat or paint goes... there is nothing better than powdercoating in a spray process, but it can get costly. We offer powdercoating on all of our manufactured components(fabricated housing, chromemoly torque arm, crossmember, and pivot link) for 125.00 as an option. if you want a custom paint color then it would be best just to buy it bare and do it yourself, but if nothing fancy is in order then the powdercoating that we offer with our package is a pretty much unbeatable deal.
Feel free to call us for the lowdown on any rearend for your f-body car. We are direct dealers for Strange and Moser and of course manufacture the ever popular MWC fabricated 9 inch rearend package. We have alot of experience in the rearend, suspension, and chassis area of these cars as we own and race them ourselves. We will discuss your goals and budget and get you the right parts the first time and at unbeatable deals.
yes i will most likely be running a 26x10x15 MT drag.
is there a fix for the TA hitting the tunnel? i mean if i'm going as far as gutting my car etc etc i wouldn't mind taking a BFH to the bottom side of the ds tunnel. i'm already going to have to take a grinder to my brake caipers.
if i have to buy lowering springs it's not the end of the world, they aren't that expensive. in the mean time i'll probably just do the hose mod.
i still don't know about powder coating, yeah it's better than paint but i'm still not sold. $120-200 for something nobody but me will ever know or look at. and the car isn't going to be daily driven so it only has to withstand momentary useage. and hell the stock rear is completely bare and it's still fine...just ugly as sin.
i would call you guys however i'm deployed ATM and wont be back to the states for a while. so for now i'm restricted to internet. and speaking of which i can't really tell much from your website other than its 2700 shipped for your basic 9" package. a drop down menu would be helpful. i'd like to know how much a spooled 35 spline fab'd 9" would run me shipped. and how much discount on the suspension parts/ds are we talking about?
The *upgraded* slip yoke which is a spicer still has it's limits, if you are stepping into a full drag race application it would be wise to buy a C/M yoke as it seems you have goals and like many we always seem to hit our goals and then make new ones.
4.30 with a 26" tall slick would be a good starting point for your combination.
BFH is the only way to fix that issue unfortunately, most do not like the idea but that is the fix for the problem. Why are you going to have to take a grinder to your brake calipers?
I would do the hose mod before purchasing lowering springs as most lowering springs do not work as well as the stock springs do for these cars in a drag race application.
I understand on the powder coating option, we have some customers paint it themselves all the time and they come out looking great.
I thank you for serving our Country and be safe, we do have many customers right now that purchased while in the service. If you look at our thread one of our more recent customers j.timbs did his order while deployed. You have to love the pause conversations while talking to each other, can get confusing if you forget the pause and then you overlap the convo.
You named it on the head what a spooled package will cost you shipped, $2700. Other options you would be interested in is a set of tow loops for an additional $40, possibly a fill cap for $30(keep in mind we do not charge for a drain plug it comes standard), if you are going to drag race only and for that HP level we can get you into an aluminum case for an additional $250 and it comes with an upgraded aluminum support and forged yoke.
That combination will have you lighter than your stock ten bolt by around twenty pounds. If you want to cut even more rotating weight out we can set you up with a Yukon gear for an additional $100 as these come back cut from the manufacture and they are your best choice for less gear noise.
Keep in mind that with our fabricated nine inch housing it comes with our C/M double adjustable torque arm that is lighter and better fitting than any stock style after market torque arm and you will not have to use a BFH to fix the problem.
Now to added suspension discounts when purchasing our rear end package. Our MWC Anti Roll Bar that uses no bulky muffler clamps is $350, C/M double adjustable LCA are $185, C/M double adjustable PHB is $115 and SFC are $140. Prices of drive shafts are all the same across the board with everyone else as well with the popular upgraded yoke.
Our housing comes with added features at no extra cost like relocation brackets, brake line clips, and e-brake bracket if needed based on year of vehicle. Also being direct with other manufactures we try to keep helping our customers with purchases down the line with shocks or anything else and the added help after the sale.
If you have any more questions let me know and we can discuss anything you want to know.
4.30 with a 26" tall slick would be a good starting point for your combination.
BFH is the only way to fix that issue unfortunately, most do not like the idea but that is the fix for the problem. Why are you going to have to take a grinder to your brake calipers?
I would do the hose mod before purchasing lowering springs as most lowering springs do not work as well as the stock springs do for these cars in a drag race application.
I understand on the powder coating option, we have some customers paint it themselves all the time and they come out looking great.
I thank you for serving our Country and be safe, we do have many customers right now that purchased while in the service. If you look at our thread one of our more recent customers j.timbs did his order while deployed. You have to love the pause conversations while talking to each other, can get confusing if you forget the pause and then you overlap the convo.
You named it on the head what a spooled package will cost you shipped, $2700. Other options you would be interested in is a set of tow loops for an additional $40, possibly a fill cap for $30(keep in mind we do not charge for a drain plug it comes standard), if you are going to drag race only and for that HP level we can get you into an aluminum case for an additional $250 and it comes with an upgraded aluminum support and forged yoke.
That combination will have you lighter than your stock ten bolt by around twenty pounds. If you want to cut even more rotating weight out we can set you up with a Yukon gear for an additional $100 as these come back cut from the manufacture and they are your best choice for less gear noise.
Keep in mind that with our fabricated nine inch housing it comes with our C/M double adjustable torque arm that is lighter and better fitting than any stock style after market torque arm and you will not have to use a BFH to fix the problem.
Now to added suspension discounts when purchasing our rear end package. Our MWC Anti Roll Bar that uses no bulky muffler clamps is $350, C/M double adjustable LCA are $185, C/M double adjustable PHB is $115 and SFC are $140. Prices of drive shafts are all the same across the board with everyone else as well with the popular upgraded yoke.
Our housing comes with added features at no extra cost like relocation brackets, brake line clips, and e-brake bracket if needed based on year of vehicle. Also being direct with other manufactures we try to keep helping our customers with purchases down the line with shocks or anything else and the added help after the sale.
If you have any more questions let me know and we can discuss anything you want to know.
Thread Starter
TECH Addict
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,099
Likes: 3
From: Texas/Afghanistan
ok i already sent an e-mail but that post helps a lot. let me plugs some numbers into my budget and i'll get back to you guys.
but yeah just looking at the features that your fab'd 9 has i think it would be worth the extra $$(if any at all) and if i can make it work with my budget then yall will get my business for sure
but yeah just looking at the features that your fab'd 9 has i think it would be worth the extra $$(if any at all) and if i can make it work with my budget then yall will get my business for sure
ok i already sent an e-mail but that post helps a lot. let me plugs some numbers into my budget and i'll get back to you guys.
but yeah just looking at the features that your fab'd 9 has i think it would be worth the extra $$(if any at all) and if i can make it work with my budget then yall will get my business for sure
but yeah just looking at the features that your fab'd 9 has i think it would be worth the extra $$(if any at all) and if i can make it work with my budget then yall will get my business for sure
If you start comparing prices for a standard stamped style 9 inch that will have clearance issues, none of the little features that make it true bolt-in, no hardware, then add in the price of a comparable torque arm and all the other standard features that the MWC fabricated rearend package comes with, then the cost is actually a bit less! When it comes down to it in the end the MWC package is unbeatable in value and quality.
Then the cost savings is even greater when you purchase our other suspension components or accessories like a driveshaft as well that are discounted even more to rearend customers!
Thread Starter
TECH Addict
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,099
Likes: 3
From: Texas/Afghanistan
If you start comparing prices for a standard stamped style 9 inch that will have clearance issues, none of the little features that make it true bolt-in, no hardware, then add in the price of a comparable torque arm and all the other standard features that the MWC fabricated rearend package comes with, then the cost is actually a bit less! When it comes down to it in the end the MWC package is unbeatable in value and quality.
Then the cost savings is even greater when you purchase our other suspension components or accessories like a driveshaft as well that are discounted even more to rearend customers!
Then the cost savings is even greater when you purchase our other suspension components or accessories like a driveshaft as well that are discounted even more to rearend customers!
thanks again for all the info and help!
