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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 11:32 PM
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Default Torsen

I have a torsen rear in my car. It seems to be a hot topic on which oil to use w/ this rear and to use or not use a limited slip additive. Im wanting to change my fluild this weekend. What are you guys going with now a days? Regular dino 75/90? And how much you running. You just filling it till it flows out the fill hole then cap it after it stops leaking out.
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 11:51 PM
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Im putting a Torsion posi in as we speak,, i just did the tear down tonight,, and from my research im going to use,,,, mobil 1 75w90 full synthetic, also read that lucas 75w90 works well also,,, i will not be using any additive,, some say they use it to quite it down.. i will not be using it,,, and i think it takes 1.75 quarts...
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Old Aug 19, 2011 | 01:41 AM
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Just changed mine, used Redline shock proof sythetic for the second time since my 3.73 install and axel change at 110k (170k now) and have never used any additve (the Torsen is Mechanical locking so the addive is not needed) lots of 1/4 mi. runs with no issues. 2qts is plenty.
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Old Aug 19, 2011 | 08:27 AM
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Thanks guys. Hey Anthony I heard that synthetic might be to slippery, do you every get one wheel peel at all. I think I may go the same route as you with the red line stuff. You every get that rusty nail noise I've read about. Thanks
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Old Aug 19, 2011 | 10:48 AM
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Reg dino 75/90 no additive required. Fill till it overflows.
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Old Aug 20, 2011 | 04:16 PM
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so either synthetic or reg dino is fine
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Old Aug 20, 2011 | 04:22 PM
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Ahh nevermind guys. I went to torsen.com and they said you can use either synthetic or mineral base oils. So Synthetic it is. Off to the store
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Old Aug 24, 2011 | 04:16 AM
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Originally Posted by pancho toco loco
Thanks guys. Hey Anthony I heard that synthetic might be to slippery, do you every get one wheel peel at all. I think I may go the same route as you with the red line stuff. You every get that rusty nail noise I've read about. Thanks
Never an issue.
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 02:16 AM
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Default mob 1

Im prolly too late to give advise but I tried dino 80/90 because of cost with my torsen after using mob1 75-90 syn+4oz gm additive the previous 30k miles and 800mi after using dino lube I busted the driver side off the torsen, the carrier bearing/race were detatched from the carrier, not blaming the lube because many people use it w/out problems, most people dont drive these 100mi per day with 4.10 gears either, it happened after I turned my last turn home from work after 50mi highway driving and the bearing was new and still good but the driver side-side gear in the case was blue from heat. I now have an auburn from a 98z28 I rebuilt and used mob1+gm adtve again and all is well. Cant go wrong with mob1 or that redline stuff, I cant find that redline around anywhere though but I never heard of issues when using redline in trans or rear.
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Old Sep 4, 2011 | 05:43 PM
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Thanks getcha. I went with Lucas 75w90. Believe or not but today was the first day I drove it since I changed the fluid. Im not sure if its the lucas or the fact that I put a aluminum driveshaft at the same time. But I hear the wine of my 4.10's alittle more now. Think Im gonna go with Redline or Mobile tomorrow or tuesday depending if Pepboys speedshop has either.
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Old Sep 5, 2011 | 01:01 AM
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I always use synthetic in my 02 torsen rear end. The torsen differential is clutch-less so you can use synthetic and I believe GM recommends it in the owner's manual. The limited slip additive is optional but was recommended in a TSB to help eliminate some of the noise that naturally comes from a torsen rear. "Mobil1 LS" has an additive in it and is only about $10 a quart.
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Old Sep 5, 2011 | 04:54 PM
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Thanks vj90rs. Im gonna switch out the lucas and try some Mobile w/ additive for peace of mind. I drove it today again and the th 4.10's really were not whining any more then before I changed the fluild. I was thinking the new driveshaft was telescoping the sound different then the steel shaft. Idk
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