What to do? 10 bolt with 4.10s?
What to do? 10 bolt with 4.10s? Ok so I'm in a bit of a tight spot here.
I want to drive my WS6 for the summer after much neglect only driving it a few times over the past few years so it doesn't sit for too long. The only issue is I snapped a rear wheel stud sometime last year, replaced that side with ARP's, but now I have a rear vibration that's most notably felt at 60+
My best guess is that the axle bearing is messed up, but I cant be sure. I'd rather not tear into my 10 bolt and not even have anything better to show for it; of course I want a 12 or 9 but that's just not in the budget for now.
I found a guy locally that has an SLP 10 bolt with 4.10s that he braced, welded the tubes and has a gear driven Posi. He wants $500 or $250 + trade for a factory rear.
I'd much rather put something in that's an upgrade to my stock 3.42 10 bolt; I'm only weary of 4.10s because it would be my daily driver for the summer and I'd be doing mostly highway driving; would the gearing be a bit much?
So to sum things up, would a 4.10 rear be unreasonable for a DD? Should I bother with swapping in a new rear or try and figure out whats wrong with my stock rear? My guess is an axle bearing, but should I even bother? How difficult are they to replace?
Any input is really appreciated!
I want to drive my WS6 for the summer after much neglect only driving it a few times over the past few years so it doesn't sit for too long. The only issue is I snapped a rear wheel stud sometime last year, replaced that side with ARP's, but now I have a rear vibration that's most notably felt at 60+
My best guess is that the axle bearing is messed up, but I cant be sure. I'd rather not tear into my 10 bolt and not even have anything better to show for it; of course I want a 12 or 9 but that's just not in the budget for now.
I found a guy locally that has an SLP 10 bolt with 4.10s that he braced, welded the tubes and has a gear driven Posi. He wants $500 or $250 + trade for a factory rear.
I'd much rather put something in that's an upgrade to my stock 3.42 10 bolt; I'm only weary of 4.10s because it would be my daily driver for the summer and I'd be doing mostly highway driving; would the gearing be a bit much?
So to sum things up, would a 4.10 rear be unreasonable for a DD? Should I bother with swapping in a new rear or try and figure out whats wrong with my stock rear? My guess is an axle bearing, but should I even bother? How difficult are they to replace?
Any input is really appreciated!
An axle bearing is normally easy to replace. A slide hammer with outter facing claws that can be rented at an auto parts store is the easiest way of removing it. If they go bad then you normally need an axle also.
Ok so I'm in a bit of a tight spot here.
I want to drive my WS6 for the summer after much neglect only driving it a few times over the past few years so it doesn't sit for too long. The only issue is I snapped a rear wheel stud sometime last year, replaced that side with ARP's, but now I have a rear vibration that's most notably felt at 60+
My best guess is that the axle bearing is messed up, but I cant be sure. I'd rather not tear into my 10 bolt and not even have anything better to show for it; of course I want a 12 or 9 but that's just not in the budget for now.
I found a guy locally that has an SLP 10 bolt with 4.10s that he braced, welded the tubes and has a gear driven Posi. He wants $500 or $250 + trade for a factory rear.
I'd much rather put something in that's an upgrade to my stock 3.42 10 bolt; I'm only weary of 4.10s because it would be my daily driver for the summer and I'd be doing mostly highway driving; would the gearing be a bit much?
So to sum things up, would a 4.10 rear be unreasonable for a DD? Should I bother with swapping in a new rear or try and figure out whats wrong with my stock rear? My guess is an axle bearing, but should I even bother? How difficult are they to replace?
Any input is really appreciated!
I want to drive my WS6 for the summer after much neglect only driving it a few times over the past few years so it doesn't sit for too long. The only issue is I snapped a rear wheel stud sometime last year, replaced that side with ARP's, but now I have a rear vibration that's most notably felt at 60+
My best guess is that the axle bearing is messed up, but I cant be sure. I'd rather not tear into my 10 bolt and not even have anything better to show for it; of course I want a 12 or 9 but that's just not in the budget for now.
I found a guy locally that has an SLP 10 bolt with 4.10s that he braced, welded the tubes and has a gear driven Posi. He wants $500 or $250 + trade for a factory rear.
I'd much rather put something in that's an upgrade to my stock 3.42 10 bolt; I'm only weary of 4.10s because it would be my daily driver for the summer and I'd be doing mostly highway driving; would the gearing be a bit much?
So to sum things up, would a 4.10 rear be unreasonable for a DD? Should I bother with swapping in a new rear or try and figure out whats wrong with my stock rear? My guess is an axle bearing, but should I even bother? How difficult are they to replace?
Any input is really appreciated!
What are they going for these days?
TECH Enthusiast
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 652
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From: Valley Lee, MD. Southern Maryland
I would just find another 3.42 carrier or even a 3.23 from an A4, whatever is most cost effective and run it. Put your spare change in a jar to save up for a 9 inch or such. It's worth the piece of mind. I went from 3.23 to 3.73 with my S60 and the MPH isn't off by a noticeable amount which surprised me. I don't know that acceleration has changed much one way or the other. Seems the same overall.
