what gears with the 231/237
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On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Fremont cali
what gears with the 231/237 i have heard gears make a big difference in drivability...should i go 3.73 or 4.10....i got a m6...and yes its a daily driver but i go to the track often...need input...thanks
With my little 224/224 I would spin like CRAZY with my 3.73s (M6) on street tires. Its "controlable" which means I could usually steer through the slide and turn away from the wall without letting off the gas too much. 
4.10s are probubly the way to go and everyone I know that has 4.10s loves them....just remember that with a 10 bolt, 4.10s, and slicks its only a matter of time till it goes boom.
4.10s are probubly the way to go and everyone I know that has 4.10s loves them....just remember that with a 10 bolt, 4.10s, and slicks its only a matter of time till it goes boom.
you asked for what gears are best not which rear end housing m6+stock 10 bolt+ 3.73 or higher gears+4000 plus launch rpm on slicks=
m6+stock 10 bolt+ 3.73 or higher gears+4000 plus launch rpm on slicks= Last edited by foff667; Jun 3, 2004 at 03:31 PM.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Fremont cali
i'm going with the 4.10's i'm going with the 4.10's sounds like everyone that has them loves it. i will put a 12 bolt soon...but don't have the funds right now...don't think ill be launching 4000rpms with slicks any time soon...jus DRs...and streets
Selection of gears depends on several factors. For best track gearing, you want your rpm approximately 200-400 rpm above peak hp at the lights for best et. You can't just say a 4.10 is going to be the best gear. With your cam, mods and that shot of nitrous with a 4.10 will you make it to the end before you rpm out? I know you will break a stock 10 bolt with traction and an optimized launch with the hp you are making. Assuming your clutch holds and you are making the hp that your mods indicate. If you don't plan on leaving optimum then a taller gear will be just as good. If you are spinning a lower gear isn't going to help. Might even make you slower.
A 4.10 on the street verses a 3.73 will extend clutch life somewhat. Don't have to ride the clutch quite as long when starting from a stop light. Same at the track, it will improve clutch longevity.
A 4.10 has 10 teeth on the pinion. 3.73 = 11, 3.42 = 12, and a 3.23 = 13. The more teeth the bigger the contact area, and lesser unit loading on the teeth.
A 4.10 on the street verses a 3.73 will extend clutch life somewhat. Don't have to ride the clutch quite as long when starting from a stop light. Same at the track, it will improve clutch longevity.
A 4.10 has 10 teeth on the pinion. 3.73 = 11, 3.42 = 12, and a 3.23 = 13. The more teeth the bigger the contact area, and lesser unit loading on the teeth.
I have the stock 3.42s. I know it needs some more gear. I went 12.31 @ 116 with a 1.93 60', and it bogged a bit. I was hitting the 6840 rev limiter at the top of 3rd going through the traps.
Originally Posted by Larry
A 4.10 has 10 teeth on the pinion. 3.73 = 11, 3.42 = 12, and a 3.23 = 13. The more teeth the bigger the contact area, and lesser unit loading on the teeth.
depends on a lot of things.....
12 bolt will bolt in like a 10 bolt (can use your stock torque arm) and is a little more efficient
9" is stronger, can be made lighter (aluminum center sections and custom housings), but eats up an extra 10-15 HP
12 bolt will bolt in like a 10 bolt (can use your stock torque arm) and is a little more efficient
9" is stronger, can be made lighter (aluminum center sections and custom housings), but eats up an extra 10-15 HP
Originally Posted by ChevyWeatherman
I have the stock 3.42s. I know it needs some more gear. I went 12.31 @ 116 with a 1.93 60', and it bogged a bit. I was hitting the 6840 rev limiter at the top of 3rd going through the traps.
