driveshaft length difference
driveshaft length difference Gathering parts for turbo 400 swap. Running factory 10 bolt at moment. Next season switching to 9 inch. Question is can I have my drive shafts built for turbo 400 and 9 inch combo and use it with 10 bolt for now. Thanks
There's only supposed to be 3/4"-1" of slip travel for suspension, so if the measurement is just a little off by guessing you can screw yourself over.
You can. I just went through this. Get the driveshaft built with 1350 ujoints. While still on the 10 bolt use a 1350/3r conversion joint at the 10 bolt. When you get the 9" get it built with a long 1350 yoke(this will make the driveshaft work because the 9" with standard yoke it normally requires a 1 inch longer driveshaft). Then all you will need to do is put a standard 1350 ujoint back in the end if the driveshaft.
You can. I just went through this. Get the driveshaft built with 1350 ujoints. While still on the 10 bolt use a 1350/3r conversion joint at the 10 bolt. When you get the 9" get it built with a long 1350 yoke(this will make the driveshaft work because the 9" with standard yoke it normally requires a 1 inch longer driveshaft). Then all you will need to do is put a standard 1350 ujoint back in the end if the driveshaft.
I just used a long 1350 yoke from quick performance. I did this because my drive shaft had already been built for the 10 bolt. I did not want to use a conversion ujoint so I had the end cut off and 1350 weld on yoke and u joint installed. But with the extended yoke the drive shaft had to remain the exact same length. If I had gotten a standard 9 inch 1350 yoke my driveshaft would have been an inch to short.
Thanks. I'm in the same boat. My 3.5" was built for the 10-bolt but came with a 1350 U-joint. I thought I might goto a 12-bolt (so same length), but I'm pretty much set on a 9" now so I'll never have to buy another rearend. But I don't want to spend another $500 when I have a perfectly good driveshaft.
