is changing the gears only worthwhile (traction concerns) ?
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
As for which is the better mod with street tires (meaning where launch performance is not the priority), it's still my opinion that an optimized stall speed is the better choice for a 4L60E/LS1 application. Both will require some launch finesse, but once you are beyond launch the shift extension improvement of the optimized stall speed is superior to the gains of any reasonable street gear ratio with a stock stall speed.
And, right now, at your level, they will absolutely make the car feel better and it will accelerate faster down low and throughout the mid-range......regardless if its stock or modded.
.
my first mod was 3.73 gears to replace the 2.73 that cam stock. Expected a big change but didn't see or feel it. These cars have a deep first gear in the trans that masks things a little. Then put in a 2800 converter and now I was getting somewhere, still stock motor. After the cam and all my bolt ons I did the Yank 3600. wish I had done that in the first place. Live and learn. Sure I, like everybody, have some traction issues even with drag radials but for that matter, everybody is in the same boat on the street.
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
But the issue is cost vs. return. Unless he's able to do the labor himself, that gear swap isn't going to be cheap. For the cost, a stall upgrade would be a much better mod at this point. And then there is the matter of expectations - his reasoning for doing gears first was due to the misconception that he could go with a 3.73-4.10 ratio and get full traction on a max effort launch from a dead stop with normal 275mm tires. As that expectation is false, and was the main driver behind the desire for gears over a stall, I would argue that the gear swap would likely not be the better first choice between the two.
A few comments here.
For a car that is street/highway driven and will NEVER see the dragstrip or 'street fun',gears are excellent to improve throttle response. Cost-gears, installation, speedometer programming,less MPG.
For a car intended for the strip and 'street fun',convertor of at least 3500/3600. Cost-convertor, installation, possibly some programming, no change in freeway MPG because of a locking convertor.
A stock LS1/4l60E/stock convertor/2.73 or 3.23/typical street tires can't launch hard because of the convertors' typical 2:1 torque multiplication at WOT/flash.
Gears make it worse because of the increased torque multiplication of the gears.
A convertor will also make it worse because of the WOT/flash to a higher part of the powerband where more horsepower exists.
OP mentioned nothing about current suspension. There are many mods that can be done to enhance launch traction. Torque arm, LCAs', LCA relocation brackets, shocks.
Then at what point will the concern about breaking the little 10 bolt rear arise !
For a car that is street/highway driven and will NEVER see the dragstrip or 'street fun',gears are excellent to improve throttle response. Cost-gears, installation, speedometer programming,less MPG.
For a car intended for the strip and 'street fun',convertor of at least 3500/3600. Cost-convertor, installation, possibly some programming, no change in freeway MPG because of a locking convertor.
A stock LS1/4l60E/stock convertor/2.73 or 3.23/typical street tires can't launch hard because of the convertors' typical 2:1 torque multiplication at WOT/flash.
Gears make it worse because of the increased torque multiplication of the gears.
A convertor will also make it worse because of the WOT/flash to a higher part of the powerband where more horsepower exists.
OP mentioned nothing about current suspension. There are many mods that can be done to enhance launch traction. Torque arm, LCAs', LCA relocation brackets, shocks.
Then at what point will the concern about breaking the little 10 bolt rear arise !
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
I never had much trouble finding a decent launch technique for street tires and a 3500 stall speed with my 3.23/LS1/4L60E combo. Just be sure not to shock the tires from a stop, and load the drivetrain a bit - then quickly step into the throttle but don't snap your ankle or totally mash the pedal without mercy. You certainly won't get any record breaking 60-foots this way, but there's no need to liquefy the tires either. Performance from a roll is explosive in comparison to a stock torque converter.
Not a huge concern with the tires that the OP intends on running, at least as long as wheel hop is kept at bay and the gears are stock or properly installed.
Not a huge concern with the tires that the OP intends on running, at least as long as wheel hop is kept at bay and the gears are stock or properly installed.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Mar 2014
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You want it to dead hook, I don't care where your at. Put a set of Hoosier Quick Time Pros on it. Our car pulls the wheels about an inch on the street. And that's with no prep or burn out. You will never get those BF Goodrich tires to hook. What's the point of having a fast car if you have to milk the throttle to get the car going. That's the way you get smoked. If they don't hook at the starting line. What do you think is going to be the case at a 100mph?
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Verdad Gallardo Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 34,632
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
Stock/bolt-on or even typical heads/cam cars should have no issues with traction at 100mph on normal Z-rated street tires in good condition.
Lots of street action starts from a roll. No need to limit mods just because you're not willing to run a drag racing tire on the street, the car can still be faster even if you have to finesse the launch.
