Different C6 differential mounting options?!?
My idea is to remove the side covers on a c6 diff and simply spin them 180*. This way, the arms will now face up, and towards the front of the car, instead of down, and rearward.
im using a narrowed c5 (cut 8" out of the middle and rewelded) rear subframe, for my project. As of now I'm stuck using a c5 diff/trans, due to the simple, single center diff mount. My cradle is much too narrow for the stronger C6 diff with the "legs" to mount normally, unless I can spin the side covers/mounts around and attach the whole thing above, to a cross member I'll put wherever need be.
+ Ive looked at a c5 diff, and it about looks doable (although pointless) on that... I can't bring myself to tare apart my almost brand new c5z diff.
+ The seals are just circle o-rings. So if the hole in the side cover(s) is EXACTLY in the center, and the bolt holes around the circumference are all evenly spaced, I would expect it to work.
+ This will allow the use of a brand new tr6070 C7 7speed ($1800!!!!) Much stronger, and CHEAPER, and cooler than my current c5 t56 (z51).
+ from underneath, the drivetrain would appear to only mounted to the engine, just floating... Not that it matters, but might help visualize what I'm talking about...
I'm summary:
Remove side (output shaft) covers, and rotate them on their shaft 1/2 turn. Bolt covers back on w/ mounts now facing up. Mount diff from above, to my frame, instead of on the cradle.
I hope I'm not being too vague, let me know if I can explain my question any better, I know it's kinda a off the wall question.
and this is for my s10 project, not a vette. Just LOTS of vette parts. Its a CorveS-tEN!
You can’t simply “re-clock” the covers.
I’ now making a custom collar that fits behind the trans flange with feet at the bottom to mount to the now narrowed holes. So the trans-to-diff bolts will now go through the collar then trans then diff. Think of this as similar to the DST reinforcing braces that are out there. I have cut the ears off of the original covers so the diff will sit lower, but not all of the way, in the cradle. The hollow portions of the covers stick out far enough for full lowering, but you can’t cut them all of the way off because it will leak. Matt, with your 8” narrowing, it’s going to be next to impossible to get the diff to sit lower. You will probably have to shim the entire cradle o it sits lower in order to get the torque tube and angle from engine correct.


