Can anyone that own a automatic ls1 share their experiences with running 4.10's or 3.73's? I am currently mulling over a decision whether to get 3.73's or 4.10's. I bought my camaro for performance, not to save gas. Therefore, I am leaning more towards getting 4.10's.

What's your mpg? How many miles on a full tank of gas? Are you running stock 10-bolt rear end, or did you upgrade to something better? Also, where can you purchase GM gears? www.gmpartsdirect.com???

Sorry for the questions, I'm a noob.

 

I would like to know what RPMs my car would be at different speeds with 4.10s

 

where are you going to use the performance? street? track? auto-x? how often? what are your future mods and what tires will you run?

If you want performance, keep your 3.23s for now and buy a high stall torque converter. Drop a Yank SS4000 or YTP 4000 in there and you'll see how fast 3.23s can go.

I liked my 3.23s better for stoplight racing; less wheel spin, but 3.73s tame the mushy feel of a 4000 stall converter.

 

Street machine mainly... It's not a daily driver. It's more of a weekend warrior. I do not plan to take it to the track, but who knows? I might change my mind and do that...

I don't plan to get a stall converter for a long while because of cost. Gears seem to be cheaper, and I am looking into getting headers first(QTP's or Kooks) to help complement my GMMG exhaust before I get a stall. I like to be able to accelerate very quickly, so going to a higher gear ratio would help I believe. I'm not worried about top speed too much... Who goes 150 mph on street? I like 3.23's... I am just looking for a little bit more "pep" when slamming on the gas.

The three bad things I hear about 4.10's is that they break easily, eat up a lot of gas, and can grenade your stock 10-bolt rear end.

Right now, my car is running on 275/40/17zr BFG ge-force T/A KDWS. I plan to replace the rear tires with Nitto DR's or BFG T/A KD for a little bit better traction when the KDWS tires get worn out. I am also getting GMMG catback, transgo shift kit along with a B&m 24,000 tranny cooler installed on my car in about a week or two.

 

Bud- I highly suggest you consider the stall converter before gears or headers.
I went from 13.2 at 106 stock with 3.42 gear to 12.88 at 106 with a 3200 stall.
No gas economy change and a better feeling around town.
Then go on to your next mods.
You should be able to find a good used stall on this board cheaper than new headers and still get that cooler and shift kit.

 

I hear Yank makes one of the best converters around. I think for the street you need a tight converter, loose converter for the drag strip. What's a good stall converter #to use with 3.73 gears and 4.10? Would Yank SS4000 work well with either 3.73 or 4.10? I was also considering somewhere around 3500-3800. Any ideas? What's a good STR # to use as well?

 

I will rate what I've tried:
Vigilante 3200
loose for a 3200 rated stall. Actual flash from idle was around 3800 rpm. It let the car slide through the gears without the "bang" a good shift kit might give a stock converter.
It dropped my 60' a few tenths with drag radials and I';ve never looked back!
Midwest 4000/2.5 STR
felt tight on the street compared to the Vig3200. Almost like a stock converter. Since I had put heads/cam I really wanted a looser feeling around low speed driving but a hard hit from launch. It did the same 60' as the Vig 3200
Yank PT 4400
Now we're talking
It is a bit looser to get moving than most would like - but I know it's keeping my motor right where it should be - in the power band.
It whales the tires with a 5600+ rpm flash from idle and mashing the gas rolling in 3 or 4 at 2500 or up. It just flashes up and goes!!
I could live with a tighter converter but this thing is fun and for how much I drive (weekend, to work now and then) I'll take the compromise.
For sure need a big cooler and well built trans to keep up with the hit though!
Also a real rearend
Lost my pinion and side bearings a week of driving the Yank
Time for the 12 bolt.
Cant race the car with the Yank - even with drag radials. Too risky. Anyhing I might gain in lanch would be lost in tire spin. And IF it did hook, I'd break the rear for sure
By the way - with the Midwest it locked up and cruised at low enough rpm I was going to try 4.10 gears. With the Yank, I'm at 3000 rpm or higher most times so the 3.73 is staying. Also the Nittos have been running the street all last summer and this summer too.
I'll never run a regular Z rated tire again! They are just as good in the rain and handle no worse either. I love the converter/drag radial/3.73 combo
good luck.

 

If you are going to run a big stall, gears do not add a lot in terms of performance. They feel faster, but track testing shows the gains are small. Put a Yank SS4000 in there. Do it first. It will do more than headers & gears combined!

 

Thanks for the advice guys. I'll go with a Yank SS4000 as my next mod!

 

One is for sale now in here and keep searching.
Let us know how you love the improvement!

 

Yes but... The Yank SS4000 that is for sale in here is made for 200-4R Trannies, not 4l60e... Even the owner said that it wouldn't be worth it to make changes to the converter so it could fit 4l60e.

There's a Yank Converter GP getting ready to start up in here, so I'll keep an eye out and hopefully get it at a good price.

I just hope that the Yank SS4000 isn't too much for my stock 4l60e tranny and stock cam. My friend is building an El Camino, and he owns a '93 Camaro LT1 Z28. He thinks a 4000 stall may be a little bit too much for my car and that my stock cam won't match up with it. He thinks that 4000 stall were made for cams with at least 500 lift. His buddy is also building a '69 camaro with a 350 bored out, and a cam with 512 lift, and was saying that even 4500 was too much stall for him. Of course, these people run different kinds of cars with different engines, so what works for f-bodies like my cars might not work for them and vice versa...

I think I need to talk to someone at Yank and see what they have to say about it...

 

http://www.f-body.org/gears/

 

Right. I had a stock 95 LT1 with 2.73 and a B&M shift improver kit. I put an Art Carr racing converter in it and was great!
The tech at Art Carr took the specs the converter was built for (some big cube supercharged car) and compared it to my stocker. He figured that with so much less torque applied to it the converter would stall/flash right around where I wanted. It was overbuilt but stalled perfect. Flashed to about 4000 and held against to brakes to about 2400
Made street cruising a blast and took away the early shift bs. I could floor it from a stop, burn right through first, hit second at redline, and again into third - all without manually shifting at all!!
LS1 motors are totally different than older 350 so don't even compare their specs.
Call Yank or TCI. A Vig 3200 is a safe buy but if you plan more mods go for a 4000 stall now and build into it. Just my opinion.

 

Thanks!

 

I have 4.10 gears w/ 3500 converter.. It has awesome power at wheels. however I think I just blew the rear end out because i have all sorts of noises coming out of the rear. grinding sounds. tapping sounds. whisyling sounds. I am going to take it apart today and see what happened. but i am afraid i am only going to confirm my worst fears. DO NOT get 4.10's get 3.73's at the most or get 4.10's but no converter. If you plan converter in even a year's time do not get 4.10's. I got 4.10's because I listened to my friend. And I took his advice because he is experienced in drag racing and even builds dragsters. He is even talking me into getting 4.56's because I got slicks. I have only put slicks once. however I was not on slicks when i think i blew the rear

 

Is that with your stock 10-bolt, or aftermarket rear end?

 

That's With My Stock 10bolt

 

what about with a stock 10 bolt paired with an m6. would 4.10's still blow the rear with hard use? what about 3.73's?

 

2.73's will blow a stock 10 bolt with hard use behind a 6 speed

 

Would you say the same thing if you had a ford 9 or a 12 bolt?