You're right, I suppose what I meant to say was: my math came out to 50.9something teeth, and by rounding up to 51 teeth and reversing the calculations, the perfect rear tire height for a 100% synchronous 51/47 tooth split gave me a rear tire height that was only about a millimeter or so taller than the actual tire height XP

Ah, I see, thank you. Oh well, at least I can deal with the speedometer being a bit off, haha.

 

Hey guys, sorry its taken 2+ years for me to post an update on this but it honestly wasn't that high on my to-do list for how big a pain in the *** (and gamble) it was.
Anyway, a couple months ago I killed a curb in the rain and shattered all 4 wheels and bent my rear end (among other things). Luckily I had just ordered a Dana60, so I figured it was a good time to give this a shot since I ended up getting back a little extra from insurance. It took ages just to find a machine shop that would touch it... 2, in fact. I got a guy on Etsy to CNC what were essentially toothless blanks, and a local shop that pretty much just did me a favor by cutting the teeth out for me... The blanks were about a buck and a half, and getting the teeth cut was about $500, so around $650 all said and done, give or take. The huge pain about it all was just finding someone to do it. If I used the words "gear" or "teeth", they were out. I would assure them that it wasn't an actual load carrying gear, and that the teeth only exist to be counted by a magnetic sensor, but no dice. That's the biggest hurdle to this fix, so if you're able to CNC or happen to know a guy, you might be better off than I was.

TDLR; it works! You'd want to do the math for whatever wheel setup you have, but the 51 teeth version is working fantastic for what I've got. Still not sure if it was worth it just to get rid of a light and keep the ABS/TCS... but, it was for science. I did it so you don't have to, lol.

 

That's an ambitious project. So what material did you use? Aluminum is non-ferrous, so I'd doubt that the magnetic sensors would be able to pick it up. But maybe if it was an alloy that had some iron in it. Curious minds want to know.

 

He used ASTM 1045, but you're right it does have to be ferromagnetic. You could do a zinc plating over the steel though, that's what it looks like they do for stock replacements.