Pinion Angle - How important is it for Drag Racing?
I'm wanting some 1.4X 60' times in a full weight car with a 6-speed. Help a brother out! <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">
Tony <img src="images/icons/confused.gif" border="0">
P.S. Steve's dad was there also to give us tips on the old school and the new..
[ December 14, 2001: Message edited by: BADZ ]</p>
-Andrew
I went through this whole ordeal back in May. After lots of research and asking around I was told that anything over -1.5 pinion angle was to much and the more negative you go, the more road noise you will get, and expect to change u-joints quite often. When you set the angle, the car must be on the ground (all 4 wheels), don't set the angle with the car up on a regular lift, if it's a drive on lift that's a different story. Remember as you go more and more negative you create a binding effect which in an extreme case will hurt performance.
You might want to shoot Steve and Dennis an email regarding torque arm pinion angle. I think both of them have pinion angle gauges. Dennis has a Random Tech T/A and Steve has a BMR T/A.
Tony
Now depending on your suspension, track bite, etc. How much initial you need can vary greatly. I have run up to -4 degrees on the street without issue, though that mandates new u-joints every 6 months or so (and you don't need -4 on the street as street tires don't have enough *traction* to warrant it. On slicks may be another matter.
[quote]Andrew, you are correct, the LG torque arm is solid. Their setup uses the adjustable lower control arms and variable mounting brackets to set the pinion angle. Just a different method.
Tony
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Don't like the sound of that. If you vary the length of your LCA to change your pinion angle you will (1) be putting it in an instant bind with the TA since this specific to a certain pinion angle. (2) Your LCA's will swing on a different arc than the T/A. Now you have some give in your torque arm (for-aft movement - or you should), but I would be worried about putting additional stress on the TA.
Chris Bennight
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Take a look at the pic real qic.

The T/A mounts to a new fabbed tranny crossmember in stead of the tranny itself..also it's longer than the other T/A that mount in the rear brace area...longer means more leverage. Also they said that the tranny crossmember will have a built in drive shaft loop that extends off of it.
If you look at thier fabbed crossmemeber it appears that it has different holes for different pinion angles..looks like a good quick way to switch to a more aggressive pinion angle at the track or to try out different angles to see how it affects your launch.
As soon as they get it into production I'm gonna try it out.
[ December 14, 2001: Message edited by: Smoke_ur_5.0 ]</p>
[quote]The T/A mounts to a new fabbed tranny crossmember in stead of the tranny itself..also it's longer than the other T/A that mount in the rear brace area...longer means more leverage. <hr></blockquote>
As I understand it reducing instant center will increase the anti-squat characterstics of a chassis. So now the torque that would be wasted on spring deflection, etc. is instead trasmitted to the rear end housing and acts as an increase in the normal force (more traction). Now I know with high hp cars this can lead to some wild wheels up launches, but at the power level most of us are talking about (<650-700+ rwhp) I would think a shorter instant center would be preferrable? (posted this in the JFP/SS TA thread and didn't get a reply there either <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0"> ).
Chris
[ December 14, 2001: Message edited by: ChrisB ]</p>
nice to see some people chimming in on this.
for starts, i would go with a -2 pinion angle.
adjust from there.
be sure what ever you do to have your weight in the drivers seat when you do it also. it will change other wise.
i will have to say that dont like the thought of changin the angle using the lower control arm either. but ya never know, it might work out better.
steve frank
I have the RT tech tq arm but plan to get Billingsley's front mount (at least).
Chris
Pinion angle should be left as close to -2 as possible. If the car doesn't hook, going lower will help reduce the shock to the tires at launch, at the expense of a few hp going down the track.
<strong>What is factory pinion angle?</strong><hr></blockquote>
I don't know exactly (maybe someone will chime in) but it's not much. Maybe a half degree or so?
The real traction advantage comes from looking past the torque arm. It's all in the first foot in front of the rear axle. The Pete Z bars use axle torque (twisting torque) to push the body up and plant the tires down. There is actually separation between the body and the rear end, which plants the tires to the pavement with much greater force. Squat is bad...separation is good...at least in a 9 to 11 second ride. The torque arm is just along for the ride...it can't really have that dramatic of an influence on traction because of its great length. Too much leverage is lost over those 4 feet. Look further back for traction, it's not in the torque arm. If you don't believe me, crawl under any F-Body running stock eliminator and you will see where all the effort is spent...it's not in the torque arms...open your eyes!

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