The 10 bolt mystery....
The 10 bolt mystery.... There has got to be some way to clarify this 10 bolt thing. Many people say they don't last to slicks and launching, some do. Some say they won't even last long on DR's and hard launching and others do. Some on this forum are running them with no issues, m6 and a4 with no problems, some aren't. Reading past issues of GMHTP, even some in there have 1.5 60's and in the 10's on the stock 10 bolt with slicks and drive 200-250 weekly. Many of the GMHTP featured cars and test cars for buildups are on the stock rear. I really wish we could put an end to this with some hard data and technical expertise. Yeah, there's some really well knowledged people on LS1tech but I think alot of what people respond to is just a thread count matter and reply with hearsay and other peoples experiences, not their own. One person blows theirs up after 100's and 100's of hard launches, posts it up and now we all think that we'll blow ours on the first pass. All this talk about the stocker grenading really keeps people from getting the full potential from their cars. I'm kind of scared to race my car from all this talk. I recently raced, realized I need traction other than what street tires will give me to go fast but after reading all this, I dunno. I recently read that it was worthless to try and strengthen the 10 bolt. I don't know much about transmissions but is this true? Can we put an end to this somehow? These rearends were made on an assembly line, and have nearly identical tolerances? Were the materials they were made over the years so different that some are considerably stronger than others so that's why they're hit or miss? I doubt it? Can this just be narrowed to driving and launch style? Track conditions? I really want to know.
Originally Posted by joblo1978
One person blows theirs up after 100's and 100's of hard launches, posts it up and now we all think that we'll blow ours on the first pass. All this talk about the stocker grenading really keeps people from getting the full potential from their cars.
I won't say you can't run on a 10 bolt for a while, but I will say.....have a friend with a trailer nearby just incase.
Originally Posted by jay_99z
Break one and have to find a ride home. That is what it took to convince me. You can believe it will hold up because XXXXXXX ran a 10.xx on one. I used to believe that too. I have broke two........only running 11's.......with an auto.
I won't say you can't run on a 10 bolt for a while, but I will say.....have a friend with a trailer nearby just incase.
I won't say you can't run on a 10 bolt for a while, but I will say.....have a friend with a trailer nearby just incase.
Bottom line is you broke yours running 11's, someone else running 10's has no issues.
WHY?
you're asking us to quantify something that cannot be measured.
it COULD blow up the first pass. it COULD last into the 10s.
the problem stems from the fact that no-one, not even the most talented professional rearend guy in the world, can tell you when it will fail.
for one thing, there's the environmental variables:
how hard is the power hitting on the gears?
how much traction is there?
what does the car weigh?
then there's the condition of the rear itself:
how good is the casting?
how worn in are the gears to each other?
how good is the metal this rear is made of?
where are the little microscopic cracks? how many of them?
how goods the alloy?
ect..
you cant quantify it.
heres the most scientific answer you can get:
the 10bolt rear end has minimal structural redundancy to support the stock motor.
in otherwords, out of the box, you're already close to the edge... push it farther, and its anyones guess.
it COULD blow up the first pass. it COULD last into the 10s.
the problem stems from the fact that no-one, not even the most talented professional rearend guy in the world, can tell you when it will fail.
for one thing, there's the environmental variables:
how hard is the power hitting on the gears?
how much traction is there?
what does the car weigh?
then there's the condition of the rear itself:
how good is the casting?
how worn in are the gears to each other?
how good is the metal this rear is made of?
where are the little microscopic cracks? how many of them?
how goods the alloy?
ect..
you cant quantify it.
heres the most scientific answer you can get:
the 10bolt rear end has minimal structural redundancy to support the stock motor.
in otherwords, out of the box, you're already close to the edge... push it farther, and its anyones guess.
