The crappy 10 bolt!?!
The crappy 10 bolt!?! Just want to give a big hello to everyone, from one the newest ls1tech.com members. Now on to the real question. What can be done to strengthen our rear ends? Before i get a million people telling me not to try, save my money or get a 12 bolt I would like to hear what could be done to improve on the stock ten bolt. I have done some research on my own and came up with a few things like: TA cover, welding the axle tubes up, stud kit, and new moser axles. The reason I am even considering this option is that my car stays on the street, and is not ever run with drag radials. I have heard that if you dont abuse the 10 bolt, that they can (but don't always) live a long life behind our cars. My soon to be mods are in my signature.
Of the things you menteined, the only one that might help is the TA rear cover. It could possibly help to keep the clearence between the ring and pinion to a minimum during acceleration. BUT even that won't prevent busted gears. I really wouldn't waste any money on a new one either, I got mine with an axle I bought.
Nine times out of ten, they bust a ring gear or a pinion. Why put new costly axles in it if they are not breaking, same thing with welding the axle tubes. A ten bolt can last awhile if you treat it right. I had alot of 1/4 mile passes and autoX passes on mine before it broke {and I think axle hop contributed to a large part of the ring gear failure}. I'm also running 4.10s that weaker than numericly lower gears.
Just don't try to pull 1.60s on every pass. It seems that if you keep the 60fts down to a reasonable level {1.80s or above} they last just fine for the most part. If the weather conditions are good that day and you are wanting a new personal best, by all means go for broke. The only good thing about 10 bolts are that they are cheap to buy and easy to replace. BUT, if it's 100 degrees at the track and humidity is so thick you can cut it, there really ain't no reason to try to get that last two tenths in 60 foot.
Nine times out of ten, they bust a ring gear or a pinion. Why put new costly axles in it if they are not breaking, same thing with welding the axle tubes. A ten bolt can last awhile if you treat it right. I had alot of 1/4 mile passes and autoX passes on mine before it broke {and I think axle hop contributed to a large part of the ring gear failure}. I'm also running 4.10s that weaker than numericly lower gears.
Just don't try to pull 1.60s on every pass. It seems that if you keep the 60fts down to a reasonable level {1.80s or above} they last just fine for the most part. If the weather conditions are good that day and you are wanting a new personal best, by all means go for broke. The only good thing about 10 bolts are that they are cheap to buy and easy to replace. BUT, if it's 100 degrees at the track and humidity is so thick you can cut it, there really ain't no reason to try to get that last two tenths in 60 foot.
Like Judd just said, Ring and Pinion gears is usually what gets toasted, Posi's, and bearing failures for different reasons are also known to happen.
If you are hell bent on keeping your 10 bolt, here is what I say you do.... drive it however it is you drive on the street, and if you break something then fix it and replace with a better part. If you bend an axle, then get the moser's, if you break a ring and pinion, then replace it with a set of higher nickel compsition and might as well replace the cover and the bearings while you have it apart.
I haven't read any twisting the axle tube off yet, havent searched for it either, so welding the axle tubes may not be so effective.
If you are hell bent on keeping your 10 bolt, here is what I say you do.... drive it however it is you drive on the street, and if you break something then fix it and replace with a better part. If you bend an axle, then get the moser's, if you break a ring and pinion, then replace it with a set of higher nickel compsition and might as well replace the cover and the bearings while you have it apart.
I haven't read any twisting the axle tube off yet, havent searched for it either, so welding the axle tubes may not be so effective.
Thanks for the info guys. I also failed to post that it was my plan to keep the stock ratio for gears. As for the posi unit i was planning on keeping that untill it starts to one leg and then replacing it with a locker of some sort. Maybe that Trutrac i keep seeing or that electronic one, but i am worryed about the street manners (mostly parking lot stuff).
