9" questions
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TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 642
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From: Quad Cities, IL
9" questions Will going from 3.42's to 3.73's offset or at least even out the weight difference between a 9" and a 10 bolt?
In your opinion is the lightweight 9" worth the extra $$$(about 500 I think)?
How much more does a 9"(on average) weigh than a 10 bolt?
Thanks.
I would search but with dial up clicking through threads on 3 seperate searches would take a long time.
Easily just combine all and get some quick answers. (Which I do appreciate)
In your opinion is the lightweight 9" worth the extra $$$(about 500 I think)?
How much more does a 9"(on average) weigh than a 10 bolt?
Thanks.
I would search but with dial up clicking through threads on 3 seperate searches would take a long time.
Easily just combine all and get some quick answers. (Which I do appreciate) 
With an M6 why don't you go with 4:10's?
1. I don't know about 3:73's but a set of 4:10's will definitly add acceleration
over the factory rearend setup. (I'd guess the 3:73"s would also just can't say
that one from experience.)
2. To me the lighter weight is worth some extra money just be careful which one
you get as some of them are for racing only and not strong enough for daily street
abuse.
3. I do not know the weight difference but I doubt you will ever know the absolute
truth without weighing a 10 bolt and 9" for yourself due to the fact that they
each vary in weight to some extent.
Hope this helps ya at least a little bit.
1. I don't know about 3:73's but a set of 4:10's will definitly add acceleration
over the factory rearend setup. (I'd guess the 3:73"s would also just can't say
that one from experience.)
2. To me the lighter weight is worth some extra money just be careful which one
you get as some of them are for racing only and not strong enough for daily street
abuse.
3. I do not know the weight difference but I doubt you will ever know the absolute
truth without weighing a 10 bolt and 9" for yourself due to the fact that they
each vary in weight to some extent.
Hope this helps ya at least a little bit.
lets say.. i could pick up my 10 bolt.. like dead lifting it.. The 9" took atleast 2 people to move it around haha.. quite a bit heavier.. sucks but atleast it will never break! can't answer your other questions though.. good luck
If you went with a fabricated housing and aluminium center that should be about 40lbs lighter than a regular 9" housing with a nodular iron center. A bare fabricated housing from Billingsley is $1100 though. You can get a Moser regular housing for that price with axles, bearings, and ends.
Unless your building a hardcore race car I would just get the Moser housing and stick an aluminium case on it. A light weight spool will save you some weight too.
Unless your building a hardcore race car I would just get the Moser housing and stick an aluminium case on it. A light weight spool will save you some weight too.
Beleave it or not, I put a 9" in with 4.11's and I thought it would be a little slower than with the 10 bolt. The first pass with the 9" it went faster than it ever has. I think it's because it is much more solid on the launch. I cut a 1.62 that night and spun 5' gett'n sideways.
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 642
Likes: 0
From: Quad Cities, IL
I'd expect a better time with the 4.11's. Just guessing I think that the 3.73's will pretty much just even out the weight/drivetrain loss I'll experience. I'm going to get a rearend before I get big power.
