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Rear End FAQ!

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Old Nov 27, 2005 | 06:25 PM
  #21  
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I was bored Sunday so I looked at some of my gear ratio charts and came up with these ratios for the 4 rear ends often found in F body's might miss a few but they should give anyone a good idea feel free to add...

GM 7.5... 3.08 3.23 3.42 3.73 4.11 4.56

GM 8.5...2.73 3.08 3.42 3.73 3.90 4.10 4.56 5.13 5.57

Ford 8.8..3.08 3.55 3.73 4.10 4.30 4.56 4.88 5.13

Ford 9 inch..2.91 3.00 3.08 3.25 3.33 3.40 3.45 3.50 3.55 3.60 3.64 3.70 3.75 3.80 3.82 3.89 3.91 4.00 4.11 4.22 4.33 4.44 4.50 4.57 4.63 4.71 4.78 4.86 5.00 5.14 5.25 5.29 5.37 5.43 5.50 5.57 5.67 5.83 6.00 6.14 6.20 6.33 6.43 6.50 6.67 6.83 7.00 ...

difference in weight between a nodular and Iron center section is approx is 19 pounds if you run 35 or 40 spline axles you'll need a 3.250 dia carrier bearing third member keep in mind a set of 31 spline axles should cover 90% of people's builds
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Old Jan 2, 2006 | 09:34 PM
  #22  
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I think someone needs to mention how the Moser bolts slip. Even though we may not want to offend any particular company, it is a fact that the Moser design uses four bolts instead of two bolts that go directly through. Many readers of this site have still fallen victim to this including myself. Even when you buy a UMI torque arm for a 12 bolt there is a warning at the top of the instructions that torque arms broken due to moser bolts slipping are not covered under warranty.
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 01:56 PM
  #23  
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When ordering ring and pinion packages it lists different sizes (7.5", 8.2", and 8.5") for a GM 10 bolt. What do these sizes represent and how do I know what I need?

2000 Trans Am WS6
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 11:56 AM
  #24  
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I read a lot of set up specs that say to use less pinion bearing preload if your bearings are used, more if the bearings are new. You say to use more or less if the crush collar is new or used. Which is correct?
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Old Apr 21, 2006 | 08:33 PM
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I hate sticky threads that just come to a dead end. I think it's an important point.
Everything I've ever read says use more preload with new bearings, less with used bearings. Now this says use more with a new crush collar, and come to think of it you're not even supposed to reuse the crush collar if you do it the right way.

So whats the word on pinion preload?
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Old May 2, 2006 | 10:58 AM
  #26  
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I always heard it was related to the crush sleeve, not the bearings. For a new crush sleeve, it takes more load to crush it down. But for a used one, that's already been done.
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Old May 2, 2006 | 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by John_D.
I always heard it was related to the crush sleeve, not the bearings. For a new crush sleeve, it takes more load to crush it down. But for a used one, that's already been done.
Pinion preload is the amount of torque it takes to turn the pinion after assembly. This is not much and is measured in inch pounds. You can achieve proper pinion preload without a crush sleeve, usually temporarily for set up purposes.

New bearing preload is tighter to anticipate the break in of new bearings becoming loose during break in, used bearings are already broken in and don't need as much.
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Old May 10, 2006 | 05:51 PM
  #28  
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Whats the fastest pass on a 12 bolt?

Is there anything stronger than a 12 bolt?
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Old May 11, 2006 | 05:41 PM
  #29  
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what spline is a 1987 firebird formula 10 bolt 7.5
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Old May 11, 2006 | 06:21 PM
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I had an '87 S10 that was 26 spline.
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Old May 12, 2006 | 04:47 PM
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I forgot to say...Any rearend can hold an unlimited amount of horsepower....Until you start moving
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Old May 12, 2006 | 05:37 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Optimus_Prime
I forgot to say...Any rearend can hold an unlimited amount of horsepower....Until you start moving
Yea I've had a 7.5 rear behind a 1600 hp dragster engine for 5 years now, no problems, but it's getting time to clean out the garage, so I have to get rid of the engine.
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Old May 23, 2006 | 12:38 AM
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I am rebuilding a 10 bolt myself. It is a 2 series. What is the best differential for street and weekend races. I was thinking Auburn or possibly Eaton. Any suggestions would be well appreciated.

Also with a 2 series you need the thicker gears right or is that the 3 series, I'm confused.
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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 01:45 PM
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So what about the oldsmobile 12 bolt? It's referred to as a 12 bolt, but only has 10 bolts holding the ring gear-but its got 12 cover bolts.
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 10:31 PM
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Some helpful definitions of common rear-end terms:

Backlash – the play between the ring and pinion gear

Differential – a gear arrangement that allows the drive wheels to be driven at different speeds

C-clip – a c-shaped piece of metal used to retain an axle shaft

Coast – a load condition in which the vehicle is driving the engine, as during deceleration

Drive – a load condition where the engine is applying power to the drive wheels

Heel – the outer end of a gear tooth

Limited slip differential (LSD) – a differential that uses internal clutches to limit the speed difference between the axles.

Pinion depth – how deep the pinion gear is in the housing, where it contacts the ring gear

Race – a hardened surface for the bearing rollers/***** to roll on (kind of ‘cups’ the bearing)

Toe – the inner end of a ring gear tooth
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Old Jun 20, 2006 | 12:20 PM
  #36  
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Here is a quick on for the FAQ masters!

When using a 9", 8.8 or 12 bolt housing, how would you handle things like your ABS functionality? The Moser/Strange rear's have provisions for this I know, but for homebuilts, is this something that can be addressed?

There is a shop locally that claims they can build me a 9" for my car. I have a 3 series carrier and 3 channel rear. Should I believe them? Is it as simple as drilling a hole in the top of the new 9" pumpkin and mounting the reluctor ring to the 9" carrier?
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 01:53 PM
  #37  
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Another question & answer:

Can't I just get a 9 inch out of a junkyard? I'm on a tight budget.

For this answer, I consulted Bob @ Exotic Performance plus.

Bob@EPP:

"Moser does not sell the torque arm mounting parts separate, so you would have to have them made for you. Welding the bosses on the rearend housing will typically warp the housing, so a jib fixture should be used to keep the housing in place until it cools. Warpage may still occur and the rear-end may have to be straightened once the torque arm mounts are installed.
The Moser 9" housing with the torque arm mount, pn# 7H9FBNT, retails from Moser for $510.00. For those trying to cut cost, I recommend purchasing the Moser housing, and picking up a used third member."

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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 02:01 PM
  #38  
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how about this:

i just put my 9" in, and now when i hit a hard bump, the rear end feels like its hitting the floor?
the top of the torque arm mount can hit... usually its just the tip of the top bolt..

i put a 9" in and now the torque arm hits the trans tunnel...?
heh, theres a few aftermarket rear questions someone should type up.. if i remember, and i get the time, i'll do it..
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 02:05 PM
  #39  
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I had an aftermarket torque arm on my 12 bolt and it made so much racket, drove me ******* insane. I couldn't stand the constant banging & the amplification of the rear end noises. I would rather break torque arms every week then do that again!! lol
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Old Jul 13, 2006 | 10:28 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by maxxer442
So what about the oldsmobile 12 bolt? It's referred to as a 12 bolt, but only has 10 bolts holding the ring gear-but its got 12 cover bolts.
Oldsmobile used a "type-O" rear under the '68-'70 Cutlass & 442s that has a 12-bolt cover (different bolt pattern than a Chevy 12-bolt) and a 10-bolt, 8.5" ring gear (I have one on my '68 Cutlass, just got done rebuilding it myself). There were a couple variations on it, IIRC 3.42s & up w/ posi had 31-spline axles while the rest had 28 spline axles. '70 axle bearings were different than the '68/'69s. Richmond still sells gears for these, 3.42/3.90/4.11 choices. No C-clips. Axles are custom made by Moser & Strange.

Other than parts availability (don't think anything interchanges w/ a Chevy rear), it's a solid rear end, as strong as any Chevy 8.5" rear (12 or 10 bolt).
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