Glad I could help. I spent months investigating what rear to go with and who to buy it from and I'm happy with both choices I made. I went with the stock studs but Scotts axles have the 1/2" stud provisions already in the axles so I can go to the other studs whenever I want. Like I said I went with the 31 spline and the Truetrac is great. The truetrac drives better than a spool and wont burn up like a posi. As a matter of fact the only time you realize its a locker is low speed sharp turns but its nothing that feels uncomfortable or abnormal. I would highly recommend it.

As far as the relocation brackets you can use them with either non lowered or lowered car. My car isnt lowered and I have them set on the center hole and they work great. If you dont have access to or dont want to weld them on I think BMR makes bolt on reloction brackets.

 

Put some slicks on that thing and drop the hammer at 6000 or better

I dream of the day when I can bolt up some slicks and go ***** to the wall with a 6000+ dump.

 

Thanks again Tom, you've definitely been a huge help. When I first opened your thread I was almost completely convinced that a 12-bolt with a posi was the way to go for me. Now I'm convinced about a 9" with a Truetrac. I definitely want a Truetrac!

I never considered or even thought about lowering brackets, but now they're on my list, which I have you to thank. I found UMI when I was looking for torque arms. They seem to make a quality product with great prices. I'll get the relocation brackets from them, plus it gives me another opportunity to play with my welder.

These cars are cool as hell with all the stuff you can do, no end in sight either.

Thanks again.

Light 'em up!!!

 

No prob. If you need anything else let me know.

 

I appreciate it! Just one more question. Did you weld your relocation brackets to the rear end while it was off the car, or after you installed it? I'm trying to figure out the best way to do this.

BTW, according to BMR, the bolt-on RBs don't work with aftermarket rear ends.

 

Oops you're right I forgot the BMR bolt ins werer for the factory rear not the aftermarket rears.
I welded them in using our stick welder at the shop. I installed the rear and bolted everything up. I took the car out for a road test and then when I got back got it up in the air with the wheels at ride height and I dropped the lcas out of the rear and positioned the relocation brackets as per the instructions. By doing this it keeps the pinion angle correct while you are installing the brackets. It was pretty easy to do but we have a drive on lift at our shop so I guess I kind of cheated. You can do it using jackstands if you dont have access to a drive on lift. What kind of welder do you have?

 

Great info Tom! That's the way I'll do it, except with jack stands.

I have a Craftsman Pro 20559-MIG Welder. I used it for my SFCs by making multiple passes. It worked great! I've also welded steel plates on the bottom of my jack stands, and tacked on my Hooker catback exhaust tips. I'm not exactly a professional welder, but so far it's been working out. I'll have to make sure I get good penetration with the RBs. I've discovered that a voltage setting of "6" and wire speed of "4" works well.

I can't install a new rearend until next spring, so I have plenty of time to get all my ducks in a row. I'm looking forward to it.

Thanks so much!

 

well i have got a lot done to my 99 formula..and have been thinkni which way to go a 12 bolt or a 9"..doesnt seem to be much other options out there..i just dont wanna invest $250 in forged moser 28 spline axles..i already blew a $400 auburn limited diff..and twisted teh splines on my D/S axle..so its time to do something...how much was the 9" thanks..

 

I was in the same boat you are. I was dumping money into the 10 bolt and it just got to be to much. If memory serves me correctly I paid around 2175 for the 9in to my door. I bought it about 6 months ago and was super busy at work so I didnt get a chance to put it in until a month ago.

 

I spoke to Scott this week about a rear for my 01 Z28 and he told me about how happy you (Tom) were about your set-up! I have a 10 bolt with about 600 break-in miles, I've had to pull it out 3 times because the guy setting it up just can't get it right! Shoulda done it myself! The 10 bolt has auburn posi, GM 4.10 gears, Moser 28 spline axles, LPW Cover with axle brace and stud kit, welded axle tubes, relocation brackets and longer 12mm 1.5 studs. I'm gonna get the rear reset-up with new bearings , make sure it's right and take a loss and sell it! I will then buy a 9 inch from Scott! After listening to you and speaking to Scott I'm convinced on the 9 ", although I was more going toward the 12 bolt. The 10 bolt should live forever in an A4 car but the M6 is another story.I will be going with 31 spline true trac set-up with possibly 3.73's-3.90's not sure yet! Nonetheless your input Tom has been priceless because it's one thing to hear it from the seller (which I think Scott is very knowledgable and his price is the best I've gotten $2600 to the door) but to hear it from a satisfied buyer is even beter! Thanks Tom best of luck with your car! I'll be PMing you with questions soon!

 

Thanks for the kind words. Scott definately knows his stuff. I'll be glad to answer any questions you have.

 

Hey Tom, got another question for you: how did you mount your swaybar? And will those BMR Swaybar Mount Kits work? They have two versions: for 2.5-2.75" and 3-3.25" axles. What size are the axles on the 9" rear? Thanks.

 

3 inch tubes on the aftermarket Ford 9" housings. BMR sells a weld on kit or Spohn has bolt on kit.

 

Ah, 3 inch, thanks for the info. Is there enough room to work to weld on the brackets after the rear is installed? I'll probably get the BMR kit.

 

Yup, just make sure surface is clean. Oh, I have a few BMR kits on hand.

 

Thanks, good to hear!

You know, I didn't even look at your signature until now. You must be Scott? Hearing all the great feedback about Driveline Solutions, I'd like to purchase from you, but what makes me lean toward Billingsley is that I could get a rearend completely assembled as close to plug and play as possible. I want to make this as easy as possible on myself, and I don't want to have to press things on and risk screwing something up. The ABS/TCS thing trips me up, but maybe I'm making too much of it. Do you do the plug and play thing or would I have to assemble some of the rearend myself? If you could assure me that you could supply me with a rearend that would be as painless as possible for me to install there's no reason I can't purchase from you guys.

I'll be buying within the next couple months and won't be able to install until spring.

Thanks again for your help!

 

Oh, Spohn has a BOLT ON kit. I missed that too. That might be the better route for me as I think about it. Plus I wouldn't have to mess up my paint job.

 

im in the same boat as predator and would like to know the same

 

I can't answer that here, in this forum. PM me or give me a call.