Think it's time to worry about it. There's been a pack of Banshee's breeeding in my rear-end, and the shifting is getting notchier. I really feel the rear-end will give up the ghost before I can afford a 12-bolt.

I don't use any tires stickier than street, not even DR's. I've only used MXX3/Pilot Sports and S-02/S-03 Pole Positions the last few years. Hard to hook in first gear, but they grab well power-shifting in the other gears. That is if I can get it into gear at high RPM's. I'd like to remove that Mcleod shim used as a bandaid in my Spec Stage 2.

I only visit the strip maybe 2-3 times a year. I tried auto-x once, and I definitely have plans to do it again, along with a road-race type suspension. It is my only vehicle and I regularly cart around my 3-year old daughter.

So, I'm thinking I should get the following, since a 12-bolt is just WTFM $$$ for me right now, and I've heard that with street tires I should have any unusual problems with the 7.5" gears.

- TR Motive 3.73 gear package. Comes with gears, Redline gear oil, GM LSDA, TA Girdle & Stud Kit. Since I don't want my mileage to totally go to the sh!thouse, and worry less about breaking the gears and even worse traction with 4.11's. I'd prefer it to be dead quiet just so I know when things are going wrong it'll howl.

- Also comes with Ratech Complete Kit, but I figure I'll get the Deluxe and replace the wheel bearings & seals as well. First two items $500

- Ratech Solid Pinion Spacer. $18

- CF driveshafts are WTFM as well. My car came with the steel shaft. Should I upgrade to chromoly? Prices & vendors? What about yokes?

- I presume that the sloppiness in the stock drivetrain is not considered a feature. Can this be removed with aftermarket parts?

- Pro 5.0 shifter $180

- McLeod Adjustable Master $200

What is a reasonable amount to pay for the gear & Adj Master install? I've got local quotes of $370 & $400 just for the gear labor. The $370 includes 90-day warranty against noise, but nothing else. Should I expect a better 'warranty' against failure?

I'm also paranoid as hell about my clutch hydraulics. Seems that every time they get messed with nobody can get them working right and I have to buy a few slaves for people to practice on to get it right. That gets old. If the master/slave is working fine now, and we swap in the adjustable and can't get pressure back, what can cause the master and/or slave to have failed during this process, and better yet, how do we prevent it?

What am i missing? I'm hoping that after the new gears & master I'll find there's nothing wrong with the tranny's operation.

I have a H/C/I/headers car. Thanks!

 

My opinion on upgrading a 10 bolt.. that's $700 dollars (after install) towards a 12 bolt and piece of mind.

 

I concur...so what patches can I do to insure I can get maybe 1-2K more miles out of it without sinking a ton of money into it? Should I just have it serviced and cross my fingers?

 

I agree with wilwaxu. I would keep my fingers crossed and save for the 12 bolt. Even on the street, you can put a lot of stress on the gears because of bad pavement.

Wheel hop hurts the rear, so some LCAs are usefull when you do your 12 bolt.