Torque arm for Moser 9"
Originally Posted by v8juice
What torque arm are you guys using(other than stock) for the Moser 9" that will bolt up without hacking anything up?
Originally Posted by CW00BlackTA
If you are going for drag racing, you'll want a shorter body mounted TA such as the Spohn or Umi units. I'm running the Spohn unit that Bob suggested above.
That's a MYTH. Unless you are making over 600rwhp, a chassis mounted TA is not needed. They are nice units though!
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The car very rarely is ran at the track so Ill probably go with a basic trans mounted unit. I had a Eldebrock arm that someone gave me that worked on the stock rear but the mounting flanges were not wide enough and no amount of cutting or grinding would help make it fit to a Moser 9".
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Originally Posted by v8juice
The car very rarely is ran at the track so Ill probably go with a basic trans mounted unit. I had a Eldebrock arm that someone gave me that worked on the stock rear but the mounting flanges were not wide enough and no amount of cutting or grinding would help make it fit to a Moser 9".
I modified mine to fit to the Moser 9". That is, i modified the 9" torque arm bracket to get the TA to fit.....then i went to the track and absolutely DESTROYED that edelbrock TA. be careful,they are NOT built to handle what a 9" can handle
Thats why i went to the Random tech
Originally Posted by tim99ws6
That's a MYTH. Unless you are making over 600rwhp, a chassis mounted TA is not needed. They are nice units though!
If you were referencing removing the TA from the tailshaft, then I think that's a great idea! As much as I wouldn't want my TA achored to the sheetmetal floor, I'd want it on my transmission even less.
I especially like the adjustable UMI TA paired up with the adjustable (to change instantaneous center) BMR crossmember that relocates the TA off the tailshaft.
Ben T.
Originally Posted by Studytime
...but with 600 rwhp and an aggressive launch, I wouldn't want my torque arm anchored to a piece of sheet metal [the "chassis", aka floor]. I went with a UMI arm, and have been happy with the build quality. It's the full length arm, and important to me it's not mounted to the thin metal floor. Being that the fastest cam-only car in the country runs the same design torque arm, I figured it would be good enough for my car.
If you were referencing removing the TA from the tailshaft, then I think that's a great idea! As much as I wouldn't want my TA achored to the sheetmetal floor, I'd want it on my transmission even less.
I especially like the adjustable UMI TA paired up with the adjustable (to change instantaneous center) BMR crossmember that relocates the TA off the tailshaft.
Ben T.
If you were referencing removing the TA from the tailshaft, then I think that's a great idea! As much as I wouldn't want my TA achored to the sheetmetal floor, I'd want it on my transmission even less.
I especially like the adjustable UMI TA paired up with the adjustable (to change instantaneous center) BMR crossmember that relocates the TA off the tailshaft.
Ben T.
Ben,
I think you and i think WAY too much alike, ahahahaha. I would venture to say a well-built "tranny mount style" TA with the BMR relocation setup is hands down the best TA setup you can run on our cars(minus Madmans)
I've installed a few chassis mount TA's on friends cars in the past, and the thought that the TA is held on by that flimsy metal scares me. Hell, i dont even feel comfortable knowing my SLD DD's are connected through those bolts.
I am aware that the TA will push into the mount on launch, but what scares me is regular street driving, where dynamic road conditions will be much more extreme on that flimsy joint over time.
I think the whole "chassis mount" style is a bit of a fad(sp?), BUT i know there are ALOT of fast cars out there that prove they work.
Regardless, i think just about ANY decent aftermarket TA for our cars is going to improve the car, as long as it is adjustable, and is built heavily enough to handle hard launches.
12 Second Club
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: ca
Hi,
so, just to recap,
1. stock-type torque arms with the mount relocated to the cross memeber is the best
(ex. spohn 402 or a umi trans mounted with the umi relocation kit )
2. floorboard mounted torque arms are good for high poowered drag racing, but can be bad for the floor boards
(ex. umi tunnel brace torque arm )
3. stock-style torque arm mounted to the transminission are ok too, but not optimal
(ex. the stock arm, and many aftermarket )
is this right?
do the floorboard mounted torque arms mount to the same place as the inside connection on SFCs? If running SFCs, does that make the floorboard mounted torque arms a definate plus over trans-mounted, as the floorboard mounted torque arms are then attached not to the floorboards, but to the SFCs?
so, just to recap,
1. stock-type torque arms with the mount relocated to the cross memeber is the best
(ex. spohn 402 or a umi trans mounted with the umi relocation kit )
2. floorboard mounted torque arms are good for high poowered drag racing, but can be bad for the floor boards
(ex. umi tunnel brace torque arm )
3. stock-style torque arm mounted to the transminission are ok too, but not optimal
(ex. the stock arm, and many aftermarket )
is this right?
do the floorboard mounted torque arms mount to the same place as the inside connection on SFCs? If running SFCs, does that make the floorboard mounted torque arms a definate plus over trans-mounted, as the floorboard mounted torque arms are then attached not to the floorboards, but to the SFCs?
Hello,
Anyone of our torque arms to the exception of our non-adjustable set-up will work excellent on a 9", and they fit extremely well with a Moser.
For 600 RWHP I would recommend at some point to get the torque arm off the transmission, whether it be a torque arm relocation kit or a shorter tunnel mounted torque arm. Both will work extremely well, the short arms do help to transfer weight a bit better and will work better on the higher HP cars. The shorter arms do bolt to the floor chassis, we have never had a issue with this but I can see where it could be. That is why we have designed our 3-Point style SFC's. These SFC's bolt under the torque arm front mount and remove the stress from the floor of the car.. a excellent set-up for high HP cars. Below is a few pictures to show different set-ups. If you have any questions please ask and I am glad to help.
Short tunnel mounted torque arm with 3-Point SFC's-
Transmission Mounted torque arm with relocation kit-
Anyone of our torque arms to the exception of our non-adjustable set-up will work excellent on a 9", and they fit extremely well with a Moser.
For 600 RWHP I would recommend at some point to get the torque arm off the transmission, whether it be a torque arm relocation kit or a shorter tunnel mounted torque arm. Both will work extremely well, the short arms do help to transfer weight a bit better and will work better on the higher HP cars. The shorter arms do bolt to the floor chassis, we have never had a issue with this but I can see where it could be. That is why we have designed our 3-Point style SFC's. These SFC's bolt under the torque arm front mount and remove the stress from the floor of the car.. a excellent set-up for high HP cars. Below is a few pictures to show different set-ups. If you have any questions please ask and I am glad to help.
Short tunnel mounted torque arm with 3-Point SFC's-
Transmission Mounted torque arm with relocation kit-
Originally Posted by v8juice
So is anyone using a nonadjustable TA on a Moser 9"?
If you have any questions please ask. Thank you,
Ryan
How do you get a vibration in the driveline after installing the Moser 9"? I thought they were suppose to be "bolt in" with no hassle.I have developed a small vibration after 400 miles on my Moser 9" but I thought maybe I need to get my tires balanced. If it is a incorrect pinion angle that is causing the problem then what is the correct angle on an F body that has been lowered 1.25",or is it something else? 
