Simple rear end swap question
Simple rear end swap question Hi all,
I have a 2.73 car, probably going to pick up a 3.23 complete diff... I know the diff itself is a clean bolt off/bolt on swap, but what about the driveshaft?
I figure I need at least a new U-joint for the back or maybe a seal?
I'm going to give the steel driveshaft a try, hopefully it is ok. But I want to get everything I need gathered up before I start turning a bolt.
Just to be clear:
1.) If I stick with the stock driveshaft, what should I have on hand to be safe? A U-joint and a seal?
2.) If I happen into an aluminum driveshaft, does anything change from 1? Or just get the same new U-joint and seal. But also possibly a seal for the transmission?
3.) Does the driveshaft simply pull out of both the trans and the rear diff?
Thanks, sorry for such simple questions.
I have a 2.73 car, probably going to pick up a 3.23 complete diff... I know the diff itself is a clean bolt off/bolt on swap, but what about the driveshaft?
I figure I need at least a new U-joint for the back or maybe a seal?
I'm going to give the steel driveshaft a try, hopefully it is ok. But I want to get everything I need gathered up before I start turning a bolt.
Just to be clear:
1.) If I stick with the stock driveshaft, what should I have on hand to be safe? A U-joint and a seal?
2.) If I happen into an aluminum driveshaft, does anything change from 1? Or just get the same new U-joint and seal. But also possibly a seal for the transmission?
3.) Does the driveshaft simply pull out of both the trans and the rear diff?
Thanks, sorry for such simple questions.
you'll only need a u joint if your rear u joint is bad. the driveshaft bolts to the rear end and slips into the trans so you wont need the seal either. just swap the rear and put the drivesaft back in
Both steel and aluminum stock driveshafts use a 1310 yoke, so if you are installing a rearend from Moser that comes standard with the beefier 1350 yoke, you will need a conversion U Joint. Napa sells this 1310/1350 U Joint under part number 240-0447, and goes for approx $32.00. Bob
Sweet, thanks for the replies. I've got a preliminary deal worked out for the 3.23 diff (just a stock 10 bolt from an auto), and may be tackling it this weekend.
Outside of a big breaker bar and a nice fat can of PB blaster, any other special equipment I'll be needing?
Outside of a big breaker bar and a nice fat can of PB blaster, any other special equipment I'll be needing?
