New Info on Solid Crush Sleeve
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From: Indianapolis Area
New Info on Solid Crush Sleeve I had 2500miles on it when I learned that the bearing were loose. Wasn't bad, nothing got damaged. But anyone using it I suggest a periodic check on the drag torque on spinning the pinion. If it get below 5-in/lbs of drag torque you would need to re shim it, more so if you installed new bearing since they need to break in. Just thought you guy should know.
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Vegas
Re: New Info on Solid Crush Sleeve i just mic'd the old crush sleeve i took out of the car and shim'd my solid metal spacer accordingly .. its been fine this way and i have done a few gear installs to others this way as well...
the bearing preload doesn't change when changing gears selections... i know this because i mic'd the crush sleeve out of a 3.23 rear and a 3.42 rear and a 3.73 rear all of which where within .0002 of each other
the bearing preload doesn't change when changing gears selections... i know this because i mic'd the crush sleeve out of a 3.23 rear and a 3.42 rear and a 3.73 rear all of which where within .0002 of each other
Re: New Info on Solid Crush Sleeve </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Gold Phoenix:
<strong>I had 2500miles on it when I learned that the bearing were loose. Wasn't bad, nothing got damaged. But anyone using it I suggest a periodic check on the drag torque on spinning the pinion. If it get below 5-in/lbs of drag torque you would need to re shim it, more so if you installed new bearing since they need to break in. Just thought you guy should know.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">That's hilarious. I see this solid crush sleeve is completely useless for people who don't own their own rear end shop.
<strong>I had 2500miles on it when I learned that the bearing were loose. Wasn't bad, nothing got damaged. But anyone using it I suggest a periodic check on the drag torque on spinning the pinion. If it get below 5-in/lbs of drag torque you would need to re shim it, more so if you installed new bearing since they need to break in. Just thought you guy should know.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">That's hilarious. I see this solid crush sleeve is completely useless for people who don't own their own rear end shop.
Re: New Info on Solid Crush Sleeve </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Viper:
<strong>It's one simple tool to check the backlash, not an entire shop.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I know, but to retorque the pinion nut you'll have to remove the differential. That's gear install labor all over. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> If one can do it himself then it's no big deal. I'm just saying if one originally paid to get the gears done, it doubles the labor fee right there. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Tools I bought for gear installs aren't cheap either. That one tool, i.e. dial indicator with a stand is almost $100. Add a small torque wrench for $80. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />
<strong>It's one simple tool to check the backlash, not an entire shop.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I know, but to retorque the pinion nut you'll have to remove the differential. That's gear install labor all over. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> If one can do it himself then it's no big deal. I'm just saying if one originally paid to get the gears done, it doubles the labor fee right there. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Tools I bought for gear installs aren't cheap either. That one tool, i.e. dial indicator with a stand is almost $100. Add a small torque wrench for $80. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />
