Buy 12 bolt or upgrade 10-bolt and use extra $$ for mods??
If given $3500-4000 to upgrade car <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> would you buy a 12 bolt or upgrade the whining 10 bolt rear end to different gearsand Auburn posi unit and then use the rest of the money elsewhere on the car for exhaust, suspension and brake mods? THe car will not see any dragstrip use but only street use and yes I due bark the tires in 2nd and 3rd a lot so it's not like it would be treated nicely just because it is on the street.
A Moser 12bolt complete is around $2600 including shipping charges so that would only leave me with 1000-1500 for mods and a nice corsa catback takes off another $600 and then the adjustable panhard bar and torque arm takes another $500 off and if I have the parts installed which is probably going to happen there goes the rest. Oh, sell the 10 bolt for an unknown amount of money less brakes.
Modify the 10bolt...$500, suspension upgrades, cat-back, y-pipe, shorty headers, maybe even a RAM Air hood with ram air cleaner since mine is a non WS6.
Any suggestions..the rear end is the big factor and would hate to use the money up then have the modified 10bolt go out 6 months later. No major mods will be done to the car like cam, heads, NOS anytime soon, probably not for 2-3 years to be honest. This is my daily driver.
-dan
A4s can take alot more.
I'm really excited to get to the track, the weather looks crappy today, but if it holds I am going to test and tune tonite.
Anyway, I just wish I had bought the 12 bolt sooner, I now look back and see I wasted my money on building up a 10 bolt. I would recommend you get the 12 bolt now, its worth the money.
Lee
<small>[ September 11, 2002, 11:43 AM: Message edited by: badbird88 ]</small>
Thanks!
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Panhard bar is also a Spohn tubular nonadjustable. I do not have a lowering kit and I don't plan on lowering the car. It also clears the cover by at least 1-1/2".
I used a Spohn sway bar kit and endlink extensions, about $85. I had the whole 12 bolt except the cover poweder coated gloss black for another $100. The bearings needed to be pressed on with my brake backing plates and exciter rings off my 10 bolt. NAPA Charged me about $30 I think to do all of that. And a conversion U-Joint to mount my driveshaft to the 1350 Yoke. Another $30. Some of these are optional, others are needed (u-joint and bearings mostly). I just used the nuts off the brake backing plates on the t-bolts. It's your choice if you want to get new ones. You'll also need a 3' section of flexible fuel line (black hose, $2) to connect to the vent on the axle tube. I ran mine up the heat shield on the gas tank and out the back of the car. You could use a shorter piece if you like.
Mine is quiet under load and I've even launched it hard many times. There is one sweet spot at about 1800 RPM on a cruise where the car is barely freespinning the drivetrain where it howls a little. Not too bad, I like it quite a bit.
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Every heard of anyone being brave enough to have it ceramic coated by jet hot or one of those companies? Be wanting to clean it all the time because of it being silver and getting dirty all the time! Might look <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" /> though.
<small>[ September 11, 2002, 02:20 PM: Message edited by: badbird88 ]</small>
Replacement 10 bolts can be had cheap if you want the added insurance in case something starts to go wrong. Many times you get a lot of notice before it grenades due to the whine. You can get a new carrier from SLP for $99 and gears for $200. Install will run you a couple of hundred or just buy a used for cheap.
Personally I like the 3.42 gears with nitrous. It saves your rear-end longer and keeps your gas mileage up.
If I had $4000 .......
cam package - $800
Hooker LT's - $400 (shorty headers show no gains)
custom x-pipe and bullets - $500 (don't waste $$ on any cat-back)
LS1 edit - ??$250?? (how many people go in with you)
good clutch - $1000
TNT F1 wet w/warmer,window switch,purge - $1000
That should put you around $4000 - I bet you can find a local used rear end from somebody upgrading to a 12 bolt for less than $200.
Compared to the way you were going to spend $4000 - shorty headers ???, corsa cat back, 12-bolt, suspension - your car will be making less than 350 hp against a car making 390hp up without the juice and around 500-550 on the bottle. Just ease off the line with a 2.1-2 60 ft and trap out at 120+ mph and I think you will have a lot more fun than a car that can get a 1.8 60 ft if you have the traction but will only trap at 110mph.
Just food for thought - no one is ever right or wrong just different approaches. I just think having gobs of HP is fun and can make up for traction issues and there are ways of keeping a 10 bolt together.
Good luck!!
Eric
To do over again, I think I would have put the 12-bolt in 1st, along with the suspension mods.
Just IMO
David
Here's the deal on my Moser 12 Bolt install..
The old rear dropped right out and the new one fit right in. Pressed bearings on the axles and installed them. I had to buy a U joint from Napa Auto Parts for $30 Part #447, very common piece. Also I had to buy some fine threaded nut to match these axle bolts as they didn't come with the rear end. I confirmed this with Mark at Ragin Motorsports (very nice guy). The only other snag I hit was my rear sway bar. The U bolts that hold the sway bar to the rear end don't fit. The axle housing on the stock 10 bolt is like 2-1/2" and the new 12 bolt is like 3". I just ran to Discount Auto and bought 2 3" U clamps. I then had to drill out the bolt holes on the metal plates that wrap around the rubber sway bar bushings. It was very simple to do, its easier than it sounds.
Oh yea I am also using a LG Motrosports Heavy Duty Torque Arm. The torque arm took a little finese to fit on, but its because its from LG. The stocker fits right on. As for my panhard bar, I have a 02 SS and the stock panhard bar easily clears the rear end cover by like an inch and a half, no problem there at all. I have the Moser Performance cover cost like $80 more, well worth it.
Oh yea one more thing.. My 12 bolt is completely silent!!! you cannot hear a thing. I am in heaven. I know in time it will start whine due to racing, but right now its friggin sweet.
Lee
You're pulling 1.6 60 ft's!! No wonder you're 10 bolt went south. That's an excellent hole shot for a 6 speed. If you kept your 60 ft's in the 2.0 range then your 10 bolt would probably be just fine. The car length you give up coming out of the hole can easily be made up in second and third gear if you have the hp. It's nothing for Mustangs to get the jump on me - by the time I get half way through second the race is over. If my car was stock but had a 12 bolt and suspension work as it's only mods then it would be a different race. I would still win but I would have to get a good launch and would barely out muscle him.
I'll stick by my theory that for the fun factor I will concede to a 2.0 60 ft. - but give me cam, headers, full exhaust and a 150 shot of juice.






