Rearend Welding?
Rearend Welding? I have a 10 bolt that was completely rebuilt w 4.10 Gm gears,
cleaned internally and externally looks like a new rear.
That I am thinking of swapping in my car.
I understand that the 12bolt and 9inch are superior rears
but I have this rear and had heard that welding the housing
along with a TA cover would help to make it stronger.
I tried searching and couldnt find what I was looking for.
Additionally I am looking at switching to a 18" rim
with a taller tire at the same time so my "net" ratio will be closer to a 3.90
thanks in advace. also if you know what $$$$$ I am looking at
for either that would be great as well
-John
cleaned internally and externally looks like a new rear.
That I am thinking of swapping in my car.
I understand that the 12bolt and 9inch are superior rears
but I have this rear and had heard that welding the housing
along with a TA cover would help to make it stronger.
I tried searching and couldnt find what I was looking for.
Additionally I am looking at switching to a 18" rim
with a taller tire at the same time so my "net" ratio will be closer to a 3.90
thanks in advace. also if you know what $$$$$ I am looking at
for either that would be great as well
-John
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
From: Portland, OR
I think the weak point in the 10-bolt is the size of the pinion, especially with 4.10s. You could weld some gussets on the housing but you run the risk of warping it, and I don't think it would help all that much.
I dont think welding the housing is going to help you much... And there is quite a bit of opinions floating around that the TA cover doesn't do much. Do a search there are some very compelling arguments to this. Anyways with an 18 inch wheel I dont think you'll have enough traction to break the rearend, unless you constantly beat the hell outta the car.
Sprinkle some fairy dust on the 10 bolt while you are at it 
I personally would not put a dime into the 10 bolt especially behind a manual car. If it's an auto, leave it alone it has a better chance of surviving than an M6 car. If it's going to break it will break - be it the diff, pinion, ring, axle, etc.
I personally would not put a dime into the 10 bolt especially behind a manual car. If it's an auto, leave it alone it has a better chance of surviving than an M6 car. If it's going to break it will break - be it the diff, pinion, ring, axle, etc.
I sprinkled fairy dust on my first axle and it still broke so i doubt that will work. I believe the housing itself is strong enough, the ring gear is so small at 7.5, i think most of the problems face occur with the internal componunts breaking under stress opposed to the housing failing.
IF i had any fairy dust I would not sprinkle it anywhere that would make my car Ghey
It is a M6 and figure the rear is worth about $100 more than the one with
3.42's that are in the car now so i was going to swap and sell the old one.
just wanted to wake it up a little on the occasion
I get a rustang or ricer that wont leave me alone.
Seriously though thanks for the input
I have $600 tied up in the rear and dont go to the track
never beat on my car although I do drive aggressively from time to time
It is a M6 and figure the rear is worth about $100 more than the one with
3.42's that are in the car now so i was going to swap and sell the old one.
just wanted to wake it up a little on the occasion
I get a rustang or ricer that wont leave me alone.
Seriously though thanks for the input
I have $600 tied up in the rear and dont go to the track
never beat on my car although I do drive aggressively from time to time
