diff cooler
i'm pretty sure its unecessary.... either way you would need an electric pump, a fitting going into the fill & drain plugs.. then the cooler.
Seriously though, its unecessary heat is the #1 killer of auto transmissions NOT rear differentials or Manual transmissions, abuse is the #1 killer of those
but if you really feel so inclined I would say an Air-to-fluid cooler is pretty much the only way to go, very simple design and easy to set up, the pump is the difficult part... it's a pretty thick fluid, not like out trans fluids.
You wanna keep it cooler look into a new rearend cover, the only one I know of is the Thunder Racing cover, but maybe there is one out there that allows more lube to be held in the diff which would essentially help in coolingm Much like many truck guys do.
Seriously though, its unecessary heat is the #1 killer of auto transmissions NOT rear differentials or Manual transmissions, abuse is the #1 killer of those
but if you really feel so inclined I would say an Air-to-fluid cooler is pretty much the only way to go, very simple design and easy to set up, the pump is the difficult part... it's a pretty thick fluid, not like out trans fluids.
You wanna keep it cooler look into a new rearend cover, the only one I know of is the Thunder Racing cover, but maybe there is one out there that allows more lube to be held in the diff which would essentially help in coolingm Much like many truck guys do.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,124
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas
Well... that is not necessarily true.
Heat is the biggest factor that brakes down the lubericant... in the differential... just like in a transmission.
A simple kit, pretty much consists of these components:
They are available thru VAC Motorsports, Bobby Archer and a few others.
If you are going to be doing any serious road racing, I do recommend paying attention to just this issue. The type and weight of lubericant will also take some research. I myself use an ISO straight 250wt with a suspended moly for endurance and/or high speed use... and an ISO straight 140wt for the street.
The first thing you should do is to plumb a temperature guage into the rear cover to get an idea on just to see where your at now. You may not need to spend the bucks to cool it, if you dont get into a temperature saturation problem. If you do this, a simple electric guage and sender is cheap... but you wont get the accuracy of a capilary tube or k-type thermocouple for a couple of bucks more.
Autometer has a few that will work just fine for what your trying to accomplish without braking the bank.
Heat is the biggest factor that brakes down the lubericant... in the differential... just like in a transmission.
A simple kit, pretty much consists of these components:
They are available thru VAC Motorsports, Bobby Archer and a few others.
If you are going to be doing any serious road racing, I do recommend paying attention to just this issue. The type and weight of lubericant will also take some research. I myself use an ISO straight 250wt with a suspended moly for endurance and/or high speed use... and an ISO straight 140wt for the street.
The first thing you should do is to plumb a temperature guage into the rear cover to get an idea on just to see where your at now. You may not need to spend the bucks to cool it, if you dont get into a temperature saturation problem. If you do this, a simple electric guage and sender is cheap... but you wont get the accuracy of a capilary tube or k-type thermocouple for a couple of bucks more.
Autometer has a few that will work just fine for what your trying to accomplish without braking the bank.
