Issues with 9 inch install
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,162
Likes: 0
From: detroit rock city
scott from dls is gonna come over to see what kind of mess ive made on friday. i was hoping to get it in without bugging him, unfortunetly i am an incompetent boob
Last edited by jdustu; May 9, 2007 at 03:59 PM.
Originally Posted by jdustu
scott from dls is gonna come over to see what kind of mess ive made on friday. i was hoping to get it in without bugging him, unfortunetly i am an incompitent boob
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,162
Likes: 0
From: detroit rock city
i put those spacers on and they worked like a charm.....the longer end bolts worked as well with the longer bolt spacer.....
the car was off center(1/2 inch), my method of plumb bobbing became much more accurate once i used an actual plumb bob...imagine that
the driveshaft is all good in the back, but it still hits the loop up front...i think one problem is that the rear is sitting back too far, the ds doesn't seem to go into the trans as far and the knuckle part is what is hitting the loop...i put the wheels on and set the car on the ground and the rear is for sure too far back....the springs are at an angle, the wheels set back way closer to the rear of the fender.....maybe the lca brackets need to be angled more??? it seems like they are on how they should be, but what else is there to adjust in order to get the rear at the proper front/back depth???
-josh
the car was off center(1/2 inch), my method of plumb bobbing became much more accurate once i used an actual plumb bob...imagine that
the driveshaft is all good in the back, but it still hits the loop up front...i think one problem is that the rear is sitting back too far, the ds doesn't seem to go into the trans as far and the knuckle part is what is hitting the loop...i put the wheels on and set the car on the ground and the rear is for sure too far back....the springs are at an angle, the wheels set back way closer to the rear of the fender.....maybe the lca brackets need to be angled more??? it seems like they are on how they should be, but what else is there to adjust in order to get the rear at the proper front/back depth???
-josh
wish i wouldve thought to use spacers when installing my swaybar.. 
Bob from EPP told me to angle the swaybar brackets towards the rear to get the clearance for the swaybar against the bottom bracket for the torque arm
seems to work fine, although id like them level even better
Bob from EPP told me to angle the swaybar brackets towards the rear to get the clearance for the swaybar against the bottom bracket for the torque arm
seems to work fine, although id like them level even better
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,162
Likes: 0
From: detroit rock city
the spacers are easy...i basically just took some 5/16" x 2" aluminum flat stock and cut 4" pieces, used the poly-bushing clamp for a template for the holes and popped 3/8(i think?) holes in them...i stacked two on each side, so its basically a 5/8ths spacer.....
all thats left is figuring out whats up with the depth of the rear axle...my guess is that it has something to do with the lca brackets, we will see...
-josh
all thats left is figuring out whats up with the depth of the rear axle...my guess is that it has something to do with the lca brackets, we will see...
-josh
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,162
Likes: 0
From: detroit rock city
Originally Posted by 35th SS
you might want to get a pair of adj.lca to move the rear front or back.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,162
Likes: 0
From: detroit rock city
i'm pretty sure the issue now is the relocation brackets....i think if i can get them lined up properly i'll be ok......i'm goin to cut the bracket that bolts in the shock and weld them in, i just need some advice on how to line them up...i read that the holes for the lca(in both the reloc. bracket hole and the original hole) should line up in the arc that the lca makes between them.....is there anything else i need to worry about?
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,162
Likes: 0
From: detroit rock city
some pics in this thread in suspension....wondering what the relocation bracket hole being farther back than the stock hole is going to do.....
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/712570-lca-relocation-bracket-question-pics.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/712570-lca-relocation-bracket-question-pics.html
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,162
Likes: 0
From: detroit rock city
well here it is:
took it for the break in runs, seems to be alright so far.....i centered it front to back best i could before i welded in the lca brackets, but with everything together it seems like the drivers side is 3/8ths closer to the front....
this still concerns me:
the poly bushing on the t/a was never that far foward before the swap, it used to be right on top of the lower bolt....seems to make a bit more noise(the torque arm) than before....i don't know what to do to get that like it was, or if i even need to.
took it for the break in runs, seems to be alright so far.....i centered it front to back best i could before i welded in the lca brackets, but with everything together it seems like the drivers side is 3/8ths closer to the front....
this still concerns me:
the poly bushing on the t/a was never that far foward before the swap, it used to be right on top of the lower bolt....seems to make a bit more noise(the torque arm) than before....i don't know what to do to get that like it was, or if i even need to.
12 Second Club
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
I had a s&w racecars body mounted torque arm and mine was the same. With stock rear the front looked good. With the 9 inch looked like yours.I had too cut about an inch off the back were the rod end is and the adjuster and thread holes a little deeper.I needed a 3/4x16 right hand and left hand tap.Do you have any room too move the rod ends in farther too shorten arm.
12 Second Club
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
Just looked at the pics.and it looks like you could possably shorten the front some.Top tube looks like direct thread tubing.But bottom tube looks to have a welded adapter.I think you will only be able to shorten in the front.You should only need a 3/4x16 right hand tap then.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,162
Likes: 0
From: detroit rock city
Originally Posted by formula98ws6
Just looked at the pics.and it looks like you could possably shorten the front some.Top tube looks like direct thread tubing.But bottom tube looks to have a welded adapter.I think you will only be able to shorten in the front.You should only need a 3/4x16 right hand tap then.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,162
Likes: 0
From: detroit rock city
i think i got it all lined up. i need to drive the car to work today because a couple fools tried to steal my truck yesterday and ended up just jacking it up, so its in the shop. this morning i went out and put on the double adjustable control arms and looked at the t/a to see what i could do to shorten it up....without doing some major refab work, cutting on it wasn't an option...i ended up taking the nuts on top at each end off, but when i re-installed it i didn't have enough pinion angle adjustment...so i ended up just leaving the nut in the front by the poly bushing off, it gave me another 3/8ths to 1/2" to work with....that, plus the adjustment in the control arms got me pretty close to where it was before.....now i gotta drive it to work and scrape it over the speed bumps...
