Pro gear on the street question
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Pro gear on the street question I have had a 4.56 Richmond Progear in my car for two years only running at the track. I leave @ 6200 RPM with a T-56/Spec4 (10.30s N/A@130) and killed a Richmond street gearset on 28X12.50 ET Streets. That said the GIRLS that run a couple tracks near me say my car is NOT a street car only based on the times I run not based on the fact I still have full interior, both front seats, 90% Factory appearing int cept for Corbeau Forza front seats and 10 point chromo cage.
Question is if I drive my "STREET" car on these pro gears 40 miles or so to get to the track will I hurt them or hurt their intended purpose. Sorry bout the long post but I wanted all the story told so nobody would say just throw it on a trailer.
Question is if I drive my "STREET" car on these pro gears 40 miles or so to get to the track will I hurt them or hurt their intended purpose. Sorry bout the long post but I wanted all the story told so nobody would say just throw it on a trailer.
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Your 9310's will NOT live.
"Pro gear" sets are manufactured from high nickel content SAE 9310 steel for increased strength and resistance to shock loads. Additionally, they are heat treated to be softer to absorb the high shock loads in drag racing applications only. Using these gear sets in street applications will result in severe premature gear wear and eventual gear failure.
Put it on the trailer.
"Pro gear" sets are manufactured from high nickel content SAE 9310 steel for increased strength and resistance to shock loads. Additionally, they are heat treated to be softer to absorb the high shock loads in drag racing applications only. Using these gear sets in street applications will result in severe premature gear wear and eventual gear failure.
Put it on the trailer.
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Originally Posted by lethal93ta
thats why I put street gears in mine, the pro gears are just to soft for street driving.
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Factory OE and some aftermarket sets are 4027 material... and really brittle. They Rockwell at about a 59 to 62 "C".
Aftermarket and most performance 8720 sets are softer and will take more much abuse. They Rockwell at about a 58 to 59 (with the exception of Richmond that maxes out at about 65 "C") ... but ...
The 9310 is even softer. It's in at about 52 to 56 "C".
I would suggest to use a USGear or Percision gear set. I have had the best of luck with them in the same application as yours. I might also go as far as to have the cryo'ed and REM processed.
Aftermarket and most performance 8720 sets are softer and will take more much abuse. They Rockwell at about a 58 to 59 (with the exception of Richmond that maxes out at about 65 "C") ... but ...
The 9310 is even softer. It's in at about 52 to 56 "C".
I would suggest to use a USGear or Percision gear set. I have had the best of luck with them in the same application as yours. I might also go as far as to have the cryo'ed and REM processed.
Last edited by chicane; Jun 11, 2007 at 07:53 PM.
The Motive Pro Gears are more street friendly and still plenty forgiving to shock loads. They are not intended or designed for street use, but it has been done. I would plan on regular inspections. They designed some gears for Pro-stock NHRA and are getting longer life and no increase in failures. They make a large and small pinion 9" in a 4.57 and you can get them micro polished when you order.
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OK I'm thinking that new 31 spline Detroit locker Ive had in a box on the shelf for 3 years now might just replace that 12 bolt. Now to soften up the banker for that credit card (I just spent $1300.00 on faceplating my T-56 and another $500.00 on a Mcloud SFI bellhousing) Hmmmm....
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