Are some of the shops just welding on threaded rod and rod ends? Or is there more to it. I have used several adjustable masters so far and heres what Ive seen.
Cartek adjustable master..has threaded rod and rodend. But has about 1.45 inches of travle till it bottoms out. And buy bottoming out...I mean hitting the external stops as its installed in the car, the big rubber pad on the the car. Actual travel could even be more.

The last two adjustable masters Ive installed on other cars had threaded rod and rodends, but the travel was no more than stock. About 1.1 inches travel. Both masters were from different shops. Neither would allow for complete adjustability. About the only adjustment to be had was setting the rod end so it was off the external stop (big rubber pad on the car) basically ensuring you had full throw of the 1.1 inches of travel. Which on several clutches was still not enough.

So today I took the master apart and noted a steel cone that held the spring in place on the bottom and also acted as an internal stop. I shaved about 3/8 off that and reassembled it. Of course now I have an addititonal 3/8 travel to displace that much more fluid. Total travel is about 1.5 inches, Quite a bit. The internal bore of the master is capable of the extra travel since the entire bore is smooth to the bottom. How much extra displacemnt the slave can handle has yet yo be seen but if you set it up to use the external stops as your limit it should be fine.

A couple of assumptions:
1) GM uses the lenght of the internal cone stop to set travel
2) just adding a threaded rod end only adds marginal adjustabilty

Anyone else look into this? Hell this may be common knowledge, I dont know. Im just confused as to why some "adjustable masters" arent so adjustable.

 

Hey Al,
I looked into this a while ago, like last December when my motor was out. Harlan did a write up with some pics if I remember right, maybe it was someone else. If I remember correctly, you take the cone completely out. This way when you make the rod end threaded and it is adjusted, you will get the extra travel you are looking for from the adjustable pedal. Basically what you said in your post. The only thing I was worried about was over extending the slave. I blew one apart trying to bleed it . I left the slave extened and then bled the system. After that I pushed on the clutch peddle and it was hard so I really stepped on it and it blew apart. There are two or three little plastic nipples holding the two together once fully extended.

One question for you, I am buying some new bosch injectors and they are the lime green tops. If I remember right, these are the 42 pound ones that SVO and others use, right??

Thanks
Glenn

 

Yes..lime green is 42lbders if they are Ford Motorsports. I am not 100% sure if Bosch and FMS are the same though.

Thanks for the master info. But what that means is there are shops out there selling adjustable masters for upwards of $150 that are no where near adjustable. I have two from two seperate vendors that are not internally modded.

So since this hasnt been revisisted for a while maybe...buyer beware and ask if the adjustable master has been internally modded before you buy.

 

I agree! Thanks for the info on the injectors.

Glenn

 

Ive never though about that, but thats pretty damn cheesy if you ask me. Put a threaded rod on and call it adjustable. Hell, I could do that for <$20

 

Maybe call McCloud and ask them what makes their unit different internally from a stock unit.

 

Carl...come to find out...none of the moding is difficult. You could get your own NEW master and make one easy enough, complete with internal mods.

Oh yeah...your parts are here. Ill get them on Monday. Al

 

Doesnt McCloud make their own whole unit? Maybe something is different inside of it?? I know my Cartek modified master hasnt worked right from day 1

So what exactly are the internal mods? Just modifing the cone or removing it completely?

Thanks again for the parts

 

Looks that simple Carl. Let me ask you a question...when you push yor pedal down does it contact the big rubber stop under the clutch pedal? Or does it stop before touching it?

 

Its been sooo long since I messed with it I dont remember Ill have to check under the dash to remember.

 

this is how i made my master adjustable

and the difference in adjustments is very noticeable

http://www.pendragonworks.com/tallyt...r_cylinder.doc

hope this helps some, not sure if it will

cost me 6 bucks in part and the die to cut the rod

 

excellent write up. And again TTT...if you order an adjustable master from a vendor be sure to inquire wether or not it has been internally modded. Or if your handy...make one yourself.

 

Great write up thanks.

 

actually the mcleod is the shiet. its a billet piece with a bigger bore and a longer throw.its definatly a must.