Making the 10 bolt stronger?
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Tampa, FL
Making the 10 bolt stronger? I know everyone goes to a 12 bolt or 9" but I really don't spend 2k on a rear end when I'm not gonna throw a ton of hp at it. I was thinking I could get new axles, diff, and TA cover under 1k and have a pretty decent 10 bolt. I did a search and found 10 pages but nothing related to what I'm asking.
Is it possible to make the 10 bolt stronger. I'm thinking maybe 400rwhp, stall and tires tops. Thanks. -Mark
Oh and this is on the wifes 01 A4.
Is it possible to make the 10 bolt stronger. I'm thinking maybe 400rwhp, stall and tires tops. Thanks. -Mark
Oh and this is on the wifes 01 A4.
Originally Posted by Bitemark46
I know everyone goes to a 12 bolt or 9" but I really don't spend 2k on a rear end when I'm not gonna throw a ton of hp at it. I was thinking I could get new axles, diff, and TA cover under 1k and have a pretty decent 10 bolt. I did a search and found 10 pages but nothing related to what I'm asking.
Is it possible to make the 10 bolt stronger. I'm thinking maybe 400rwhp, stall and tires tops. Thanks. -Mark
Oh and this is on the wifes 01 A4.
Is it possible to make the 10 bolt stronger. I'm thinking maybe 400rwhp, stall and tires tops. Thanks. -Mark
Oh and this is on the wifes 01 A4.
I would say do nothing at all to the 10 bolt. Leave it alone, and when it breaks, go right to a 12 bolt and forget about it. Even if you buy every aftermarket thing for the 10 bolt, you still could do something like twist the housing, then you've got $1k into a rear you can't even use.
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Joined: May 2004
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From: St. Louis, MO
the spyder gears are just to physically small to stand up to the power. It seems like most people break rings/pinions on here. All of mine and (lots in the family) all have been the carrier breaking or spyder gears.
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It would be a different story if we had the 8.5" 10 bolt like the trucks have. I had one in my full size Jimmy and that thing took some abuse. Just no provisions for LCA's and torque arm... but I believe that could be fixed quite easily.
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If you are set on the 10-bolt...
Using a solid pinion racer helps, as does as a TA cover and using a stronger diff like the T2R ($600). And not launching on slicks. Mine has survived with the above at well over 400HP for 7 years now. Drag radials for 7 years too, launched as high as 4K.
Using a solid pinion racer helps, as does as a TA cover and using a stronger diff like the T2R ($600). And not launching on slicks. Mine has survived with the above at well over 400HP for 7 years now. Drag radials for 7 years too, launched as high as 4K.
Originally Posted by keliente
Don't even waste the money. $1k and you're still on a half assed rear end that's not anywhere near as strong as a stock 12 bolt. Furthermore, $1k is half of the way to a 12 bolt anyway, so why not keep saving for something that is the real deal.
I would say do nothing at all to the 10 bolt. Leave it alone, and when it breaks, go right to a 12 bolt and forget about it. Even if you buy every aftermarket thing for the 10 bolt, you still could do something like twist the housing, then you've got $1k into a rear you can't even use.
I would say do nothing at all to the 10 bolt. Leave it alone, and when it breaks, go right to a 12 bolt and forget about it. Even if you buy every aftermarket thing for the 10 bolt, you still could do something like twist the housing, then you've got $1k into a rear you can't even use.
save up for a 9" and use your 10 bolt til it break, because they arent as weak as people say. I used my 10 bolt on nittos for 1.5 years an it never broke and I went 8.0s in the 1/8th all day and it ate less rwhp, weighed less and gave mezero problems, whereas the 12 bolt from day 1 have given me problems as well as many more that came along.
My car still has a 10 bolt. Use stock axles with an Eaton posi, Precision gears, and a T/A girdle. DO NOT GET MOSER AXLES FOR A 10 BOLT!! They don't fit properly, especially with an Eaton. This setup lasted 4 years in my car with 403rwhp, slicks, 4400 stall, etc.
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I think this is what you're looking for:
Strengthening The Rearend From An LS1 Firebird Formula - Maximum-Effort Fourth-Gen10-Bolt
Follow that, and you will have the most bullet proof 10 bolt possible (which isn't saying all that much). So if you break that, then you know its time to step up to a 12 bolt or Ford 9".
I think that article should be a sticky somewhere
Strengthening The Rearend From An LS1 Firebird Formula - Maximum-Effort Fourth-Gen10-Bolt
Follow that, and you will have the most bullet proof 10 bolt possible (which isn't saying all that much). So if you break that, then you know its time to step up to a 12 bolt or Ford 9".
I think that article should be a sticky somewhere
Originally Posted by ONEBADASSWS6
I think this is what you're looking for:
Strengthening The Rearend From An LS1 Firebird Formula - Maximum-Effort Fourth-Gen10-Bolt
Follow that, and you will have the most bullet proof 10 bolt possible (which isn't saying all that much). So if you break that, then you know its time to step up to a 12 bolt or Ford 9".
Strengthening The Rearend From An LS1 Firebird Formula - Maximum-Effort Fourth-Gen10-Bolt
Follow that, and you will have the most bullet proof 10 bolt possible (which isn't saying all that much). So if you break that, then you know its time to step up to a 12 bolt or Ford 9".
I don't know about you guys, but I don't have a lot of extra cash to spend. I'm not going to pour money into something that "might" work.
Besides, $1300 is more than half the cost of the aftermarket rear. And that's parts only - if you can't do your own labor that's another $300-$400 you'll have to add.
Originally Posted by ONEBADASSWS6
I think that article should be a sticky somewhere
I bought a used Strange 12 bolt with 4.10s, spool, rear girdle, billingsly antiroll bar for 1800.
The deals are out there you just have to have the money and wait till they come along.
And I whole heartedly agree that you should not even think about wasting money on the 10 bolt.
The deals are out there you just have to have the money and wait till they come along.
And I whole heartedly agree that you should not even think about wasting money on the 10 bolt.
Thread Starter
11 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Tampa, FL
I guess I'm just used to 8.8's. I put in less than 1k in my rear and its pretty much bullet proof. Mosers, locker, t/a cover, axle tubes welded. 7100rpms and it works like a charm. Thanks for the help guys. -Mark
Originally Posted by keliente
No way. I do not want to see 10 threads a day, 'I spent over a grand on my 10 bolt and it still broke!!'
Originally Posted by BigDaddyBry
I guess the threads that **** me off more are the "I spent $2k+ on my 12 bolt and it still broke".
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Originally Posted by Bitemark46
I guess I'm just used to 8.8's. I put in less than 1k in my rear and its pretty much bullet proof. Mosers, locker, t/a cover, axle tubes welded. 7100rpms and it works like a charm. Thanks for the help guys. -Mark
