Moser 12 Bolt fluid
Moser 12 Bolt fluid What weight of fluid as well as brand should be used in a 12 bolt? How do I break the rear-end in? Should I change the fluid after a couple hundred miles or what? Any info. would be greatly appreciated!
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
From: Neshanic Station, NJ
Re: Moser 12 Bolt fluid I believe it's 80w90 that you're supposed to use.
I know you're NOT supposed to use synthetic.
The best way to break in a 12 bolt is after the install, drive it for like 20 miles and then let it sit for like 2 or more hours to cool down. Then repeat. After the 2nd cooling period, you're all set to go. This is how Jay Fisher broke in my rear and it's pretty quiet and has handled pretty high launches well so far.
Chris
I know you're NOT supposed to use synthetic.
The best way to break in a 12 bolt is after the install, drive it for like 20 miles and then let it sit for like 2 or more hours to cool down. Then repeat. After the 2nd cooling period, you're all set to go. This is how Jay Fisher broke in my rear and it's pretty quiet and has handled pretty high launches well so far.
Chris
Launching!
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 250
Likes: 0
From: Indiana
Re: Moser 12 Bolt fluid Direct from Moser's site:
-Body 12 Bolt - 1982 to Present Camaro & Firebird
Your new housing has larger tubes than your stock rear. Your stock sway bar mounts will probably not fit the tube. You will need to get muffler clamps made to fit either a 3" OD tube and adapt the sway bars to them or to get aftermarket sway bar adapters
Your new Bolt-In housing does not have the tabs on it for attaching the brake lines. The most common and easiest way to secure the brake lines is with cable ties.
If you purchased your 12 Bolt with a Performance Rear Cover with the load bolts to support the main caps, it may interfere with your panhard bar. If it does, simply grind the head of the load bolt for clearance.
M/E Ring & Pinion Gears Break-In Procedure
A new ring and pinon installed with new bearings will initially generate higher than normal operating temperatures. It is advisable to use whichever of the following break-in procedures that matches your application.
Street
1) With car still on jack stands and rear end filled with proper amount of Non-Synthetic lube, run in forward and reverse for approximately 2 to 3 minutes. **
2) Drive vehicle approximately 10 miles at normal operating speed. Accelerate and decelerate several times conservatively, then let cool for one hour.
Drag Racing
1) With car still on jack stands and rear end filled with proper amount of Non-Synthetic lube, run in forward and reverse for approximately 2 to 3 minutes. **
2) Pull to line.
Oval Track
1) With car still on jack stands and rear end filled with proper amount of Non-Synthetic lube, run in forward and reverse for approximately 2 to 3 minutes. **
2) Run several laps at slow to medium speeds; let cool.
3) Run several hot laps; let cool.
**WARNING: OPERATOR MUST REMAIN IN DRIVER'S SEAT AND ALWAYS MAKE SURE FRONT WHEELS ARE BLOCKED AND JACK STANDS ARE SECURED BEFORE ATTEMPTING THIS PROCEDURE - NEVER EXCEED 2000 RPM WITH WHEELS OFF GROUND. FAILURE TO FOLLOW THIS WARNING COULD RESULT IN SERIOUS DAMAGE, PHYSICAL INJURY, OR DEATH.
OEM Gears vs. Performance Aftermarket Gears
Our high-performance aftermarket gears are the strongest gears available. Made from 8620 grade steel, our ring & pinion gears have been developed for strength. Made for shorter patterns, our gears favor the 'toe' of the gear, which under load the gear pattern moves toward the 'heel' of the gear for strength. Each gear set is marked with a depth for recommended set-up. The marking is figured based on the wear pattern during testing of each particular gear set.
The two primary differences between OEM gears and aftermarket gears are as follows:
OEM gears are not made with as much nickel as aftermarket gears, which in turn does not make them as strong. Conversely, OEM may not be as strong due to the material make-up, but because of the lack of nickel in the product, the gears may be quieter.
The impact value is substantially lower for OEM gears, meaning they WILL NOT be able to handle the demands of excessive horsepower as seen in more advanced drag racing.
There is a trade off. If you do race and have excessive horsepower, you will need an aftermarket gear. But keep in mind, the gears are made for strength and the ability to withstand the demands of racing. If you are using your automobile as both your daily drive AND your race car, can you live with more noise on a day to day basis? You need to decide this prior to purchasing aftermarket gears.
and about the fluid, you want to make sure to use non-synthetic with a friction modifier. Moser sells some stuff by the gallon and here it is:
<img src="http://www.moserengineering.com/catalog/category_images/ulx-110.jpg" alt=" - " />
Moser Engineering is a distributor for hi-performance motors oils and gear lubes produced by ULX-110. These custom-built motor and gear oils are formulated with the latest information and technology available today. ULX-110 will substantially reduce drag on cylinder walls and reduce friction on your crankshaft, engine bearings, moving engine parts, and gear components. These dyno tested and track proven formulations have shown to increase in bearing life up to 400% over conventional and other synthetic oils.
To you, that means more horsepower, longer life for your engine, and lower elapsed times! Call us at 219-726-6689 or use our catalog request form to learn more! 1 gallon is around $35.
Hope this helps,
Mike
-Body 12 Bolt - 1982 to Present Camaro & Firebird
Your new housing has larger tubes than your stock rear. Your stock sway bar mounts will probably not fit the tube. You will need to get muffler clamps made to fit either a 3" OD tube and adapt the sway bars to them or to get aftermarket sway bar adapters
Your new Bolt-In housing does not have the tabs on it for attaching the brake lines. The most common and easiest way to secure the brake lines is with cable ties.
If you purchased your 12 Bolt with a Performance Rear Cover with the load bolts to support the main caps, it may interfere with your panhard bar. If it does, simply grind the head of the load bolt for clearance.
M/E Ring & Pinion Gears Break-In Procedure
A new ring and pinon installed with new bearings will initially generate higher than normal operating temperatures. It is advisable to use whichever of the following break-in procedures that matches your application.
Street
1) With car still on jack stands and rear end filled with proper amount of Non-Synthetic lube, run in forward and reverse for approximately 2 to 3 minutes. **
2) Drive vehicle approximately 10 miles at normal operating speed. Accelerate and decelerate several times conservatively, then let cool for one hour.
Drag Racing
1) With car still on jack stands and rear end filled with proper amount of Non-Synthetic lube, run in forward and reverse for approximately 2 to 3 minutes. **
2) Pull to line.
Oval Track
1) With car still on jack stands and rear end filled with proper amount of Non-Synthetic lube, run in forward and reverse for approximately 2 to 3 minutes. **
2) Run several laps at slow to medium speeds; let cool.
3) Run several hot laps; let cool.
**WARNING: OPERATOR MUST REMAIN IN DRIVER'S SEAT AND ALWAYS MAKE SURE FRONT WHEELS ARE BLOCKED AND JACK STANDS ARE SECURED BEFORE ATTEMPTING THIS PROCEDURE - NEVER EXCEED 2000 RPM WITH WHEELS OFF GROUND. FAILURE TO FOLLOW THIS WARNING COULD RESULT IN SERIOUS DAMAGE, PHYSICAL INJURY, OR DEATH.
OEM Gears vs. Performance Aftermarket Gears
Our high-performance aftermarket gears are the strongest gears available. Made from 8620 grade steel, our ring & pinion gears have been developed for strength. Made for shorter patterns, our gears favor the 'toe' of the gear, which under load the gear pattern moves toward the 'heel' of the gear for strength. Each gear set is marked with a depth for recommended set-up. The marking is figured based on the wear pattern during testing of each particular gear set.
The two primary differences between OEM gears and aftermarket gears are as follows:
OEM gears are not made with as much nickel as aftermarket gears, which in turn does not make them as strong. Conversely, OEM may not be as strong due to the material make-up, but because of the lack of nickel in the product, the gears may be quieter.
The impact value is substantially lower for OEM gears, meaning they WILL NOT be able to handle the demands of excessive horsepower as seen in more advanced drag racing.
There is a trade off. If you do race and have excessive horsepower, you will need an aftermarket gear. But keep in mind, the gears are made for strength and the ability to withstand the demands of racing. If you are using your automobile as both your daily drive AND your race car, can you live with more noise on a day to day basis? You need to decide this prior to purchasing aftermarket gears.
and about the fluid, you want to make sure to use non-synthetic with a friction modifier. Moser sells some stuff by the gallon and here it is:
<img src="http://www.moserengineering.com/catalog/category_images/ulx-110.jpg" alt=" - " />
Moser Engineering is a distributor for hi-performance motors oils and gear lubes produced by ULX-110. These custom-built motor and gear oils are formulated with the latest information and technology available today. ULX-110 will substantially reduce drag on cylinder walls and reduce friction on your crankshaft, engine bearings, moving engine parts, and gear components. These dyno tested and track proven formulations have shown to increase in bearing life up to 400% over conventional and other synthetic oils.
To you, that means more horsepower, longer life for your engine, and lower elapsed times! Call us at 219-726-6689 or use our catalog request form to learn more! 1 gallon is around $35.
Hope this helps,
Mike
